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[TR] Wolf Rock - Barad Dur 6/27/2007

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Trip: Wolf Rock - Barad Dur

 

Date: 6/26/2007

 

Trip Report:

a trip report of my 10th ascent of barad dur is 4 posts lower...Thanks Tyler

Edited by retired

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Heres an edited virsion for you Jim... Nice work, you where the man up there! Kip, thank you so much for bringing the tuna and mayo, made it all the more memorable I owe you!

 

 

Trip: Wolf Rock - Barad Dur

 

Date: 6/27/2007

 

Trip Report:

My 10th time up this amazing route was perhaps my most enjoyable...that was after the slugfest with the crux was over.

Tyler called and wanted to get some climbing in before his wildland fire season kicks in so we met at wolf rock to scare ourselves a bit. we met around noon on Monday and decided to warm up a bit and do the classic Caligula III 5.7 well we did something and were probably even on route for awhile but one lichen and moss covered face is much like another and and we eventually summited...the wildflowers were peaked

Barad_Dur000.JPG

Beer and dinner was followed by a a couple pitches at the sport arch with young Kip who came by to visit.

The next morning our early start turned to 9 ish but soon enough we're on our way up the imposing dark tower. Barad dur is mellowing a bit with age and those dowels you used to have to put rivet hangers on are slowly turninig into fatties but folks let me tell you this route is serious fun and there are many DFU sections. Tyler is kind enough to let the old man lead today and He enjoys his 1st time up this great route from the seconds perspective, this proves efficent and I really like the leading in blocks concept. We steadily move up toward the roofs

Barad_Dur003.JPG

Barad_Dur007.JPG

Barad_Dur008.JPG

until were ready to start the real biz on the 10d 5th pitch

Barad_Dur016.JPG

Tyler does a masterfull job of juggin the two crux pithces and I find a spot to chill and relax while scoping out the crux.

Barad_Dur017.JPG

It's a thrash as usual but I do get up without falling or weighting the rope, i find this especailly hard since there is now a fatty at the crux instead of the old knifeblade...well actually the blade is still there but guess what I clip?

I hem and hah above the crux until waiting anymore is not an option and pull the hard traverse moves, sink a bomber nut and move off around the corner...I pull up all th slack and tie off the rope for Tyler to jug wondering how he'll ever be able to remove my nut while jumaring....well he can't and lowers off of it but after jugging up a bit flips the loop of rope on the nut now 20 feet away and it flips right out, I hear his whoop but just thought he had another air ride. we scramle the couple hundred feet to the top and enjoy our summit with the tuna and crackers that Kip had kindly packed up for us.Barad_Dur021.JPG Very nice trip up a route I'll never be bored with.

I've never done a trip report with photos before so hope for the best!

 

Gear Notes:

small rack to #3 camalot many long slings especially if you want to link 1&2

 

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Killer, good to see a great Oregon TR other than the south side of hood or what bend is like! Last time I was at Wolfy it was the day after Smith burned, climbed some routes, took a 25 foot wipper and found a bag of weed at the base of the big arch

Edited by shapp

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Thanks for the TR, I've always wondered about that route...unquestionably one of the major ticks in the oregon cascades...and 10 times, fuckin' A!

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WOW you guys. great photos!!! interesting route!!!

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The most awe inspiring aspect of the route is looking up the maw of the thing. You don't normally think of Oregon climbing in terms of a sight like that. Great climb guys.

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