Solo endeavor; any recommendations.

[ornulf]

Hi all,

 

Great site with many good TR and loads of other good stuff, and given the expertise of many of you guys I was wondering if someone had some recommendations for where to head out for a 5-day solitude endeavor? (Approx July 1st – 7th)

 

Looking for a place where I can make a base camp and maybe have three or four days of good mountains around me. Climbing up to 5.5 is good and/or some nice ridges and traverses.

 

Live in Seattle and have been playing with Bugaboos in my head but not sure if the road conditions and access is to much for my bug. Would love to check out Northern Cascades which is a place I have never been.

 

Cheers,

 

-Ornulf

 

Edited June 27, 2007 by ornulf

[ivan]

cascade pass - do eldo, torment-forbidden, sahale, jo'burg

 

bring a big bottle of liquor

[wayne]

You wont be alone on any of thos choices. Formidible, Mesachie, Logan,Luna,Fury,Sloan,

[ivan]

why do i feel like wayne and i are trying to kill you?

 

remember soloing stuff in the cascades is about a lot more than the technical grade of the hardest pitch

 

hard to have a less than amazing time in the picketts, even if it's just scrambling round and dig'n life...

[blueserac]

Hmmm...What did that Spansih guy say while in the tub, in the movie, "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly?", I believe it was, "if you are going to shoot; shoot, don't talk." There is so much to do in the North Cascades and pretty much any lcoation that you go you should find something fun to play on. In that rhythm I would suggest driving further north to Squamish and playing at Burgers N Fries or above at Neat and Cool to play on Corn Flakes or the ever lovely Cat Crack.

 

What are you looking for as far as terrain is concerned? Do you want rock, snow and ice, aid, mixed, or glaciated routes?

 

A common area is that around Washington Pass, you know Liberty Bell or Blue Lake. Think of the original line on Liberty Bell by Beckey et al. (aka. the Beckey Route). This line is great in all conditions and seasons. Prior to that it is common to warm up on the South Arete on South Early Winter Spire. Across the highway you have Whistler Peak with the couloirs and ridges and remember Cutthroat Peak, with the w. ridge being a nice romp. All these areas are non glaciated.

 

As for glaciation, last winter has been a very high snow depth year. So, Baker has been one of my favourite alpine crags, with the north side offering glacial access within two hours from the car park. The tourist route of the Colman/Deming is very nice as far as classical routes go. Remember that a few parties this year have enjoyed enlightenment through difficulty on this route this year from being stormed off, which can be very frequent-and a few mortalities have occurred in the past 10 yrs; or from a relevantly recent crevasse plunge. If your skills are keen, think this route or the north ridge, or

Coleman Headwall; or is you are seeking the classic Gaston Rebuffatesgue route think of the Cockscomb Ridge. You can set a camp and try another line on Baker or try Colfax after.

 

There is so much to play on in that area that you will find many, many things to entertain you. Washington Pass is good it is easy to hitch a ride with another party. Ohhhh, Shuksan is fricken sweat too.

 

I don't know , I am reminded of that scene in the movie; if you are going to go play; then just go and play. Depends what you want. Just go anywhere and you will either find someone to join or some line to play on or expand the horizon of your skills.

Edited June 27, 2007 by blueserac

[Recycled]

If solitude is the main objective, you might be better off taking one of the back routes in to the Spickard/Redoubt area along the border. Maybe go to Silver Lake via Galena Lake on the N. end of Ross Lake. You can scramble/climb to your heart's content.

 

[Recycled]

If solitude is the main objective, you might be better off taking one of the back routes in to the Spickard/Redoubt area along the border. Maybe go to Silver Lake via Galena Lake on the N. end of Ross Lake. You can scramble/climb to your heart's content.

 

[tvashtarkatena]

Some ideas:

 

For a glaciated environment:

 

Base camp Neve or Snowfield glacier. Climb Colonial, Snowfield, Pyramid, Paul Bunyun's Stump.

 

Base camp Inspiration Glacier. Climb Eldorado, Klawatti, Dorado Needle, Austera, Tricouni, Primus.

 

 

For a non glaciated environment with some steep snow and rock scrambles:

 

Go into the Pasayten and climb Carru, Lago, Osceola, Blackcap, Monument

 

Phelps Creek Trailhead - Leroy Creek: Climb Maude, 7 Fingered Jack, Fernow, Dumbell

 

Lyman Lake (Phelps Creek TH): Climb Dumbell, Chiwawa, North Star, Cloudy, Plummer, Sitting Bull

 

Do the Bacon, Hagan, Blum traverse. Guaranteed you won't see anyone after the first day. Requires a car/mtn bike shuttle.

 

Boat into Holden Village. Climb Bonanza, Martin, Fernow.

 

Base camp Glacier Basin (Monte Cristo TH): Climb Columbia, Monte Cristo, McMillan Spires. Probably more popular.

[mikestuckey]

Pasayten area from the Monument Creek TH would be very quiet. In fact, the trail is so poorly maintained beyond Eureka Creek, it discourages all but those trying to bag Monument Peak and Lake Mountain. We were in there June 8-10. No one else around. You could have a very nice base camp atop Pistol Pass and climb the two aforementioned plus the Pistols and several others. The trail was snow-free to the pass, but the basin north of it where Lake of the Woods lies will probably still have a foot or more in most places. Take plenty of water from the last stream that crosses the trail or be prepared to melt snow.

 

The climbs out of Leroy Basin (Fernow, 7FJ and Maude) will have plenty of folks from here on out, but you can likely find quiet places to camp by yourself. If you head for the SW ridge on Maude, you can camp over in the Ice Lakes basin on some melted-out islands and have your pick of a bunch more nice summits, finishing with Fernow and 7FJ on the way back out thru Leroy. Although only 25 miles, the drive to the TH off Chiwawa River Road is at least an hour from the resort area at Lake Wenatchee.

 

Have fun!