G-spotter Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=585 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Bolt Removal from the experts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 after the first day of chopping Infinite Bitching... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 I bolted the site in the autumn of 2006. In order to create a great variety of access & rescue scenarios so I could practise various skills, I knew I had to install a huge number of bolts ( more than the need for any climbing purpose as a climber can imagine). Before choosing the site, I was doing scouting all around Shek O and of course other areas in order to find a site where it is not so “popular” to climbers. I was trying my best to avoid those popular / good / classic sites for trad / lead / top-rope climbing. I know bolting a classic site is a “crime” and I (as a climber myself too) just don’t want to create any negative effect to classic sites. But everybody knows climbers would just go for any new rocks, so in such sense there is virtually no rocks that climbers wouldn’t touch. I know there is boulder problem name Leap of Faith at the site. And of course I know the bolts will cause changes to the overall bouldering environment. When I was working on the bolting, I was trying my very best to avoid those spots with handholds. The spots where the bolts located are un-climbable (at least to me is unclimbable). All (or may be most to somebody) the handholds are not “affected”. Anyway once a bolt is installed, the site is more or less changed. Let me apologize once again for that. WTF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 (edited) If at all possible when removing and replacing bolts, try NOT to use a tuning fork. That's the piton with the center cut out. In softer rock, tuning forks create scars that are hard to cover up with epoxy. If there is any concern about the rock being scared try to remove the bolt by tightening it until it breaks first. Then if this doesn't work, resort to the tuning fork. Afterwards, be sure to do your best to cover up the scars adequately. If you're stripping a wall of 5-piece Rawl bolts because of some type of ethical dilema, check out the article on these at: http://www.safeclimbing.com/education/removingrawlbolts.htm Jason Edited June 28, 2007 by Jason_Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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