Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
sparkytheflash

Sagitarious Mid-Anchors Chopped!

Recommended Posts

Assuming it was the same moron who chopped JG their level of stupidity seems to be continually increasing. I suspect before long they'll either die because they forget to breath or will be run over by a train as it passes by the crag while they lay out sunning themselves on the tracks midweek after another good anchor chopping.

 

This f@cking dumb sh&t should just be banned from climbing or interacting with others altogether. That anchors will just be replaced but with better hardware this time round and whatever their point was will be lost on the nice new hardware that will make up yet another mid point anchor. If they want to make a statement there are a bunch of other things they could do to promote hard climbing, good style, better ethics or any number of positive things.

 

Unfortunately they are such wusses they will never show their face and instead do nothing more than stir the pot and guarantee more anchors be put up. I see this causing not fewer mid anchors but more because we could probably use a few more out there. I'd like one half way up City Park for a short aid pitch if I feel like it and the final moves on Godzilla are way hard so toss in another one their before the double hand cracks start would be nice. I could also see another anchor or two easily on Princely, why don't we break up that awful traverse with another anchor and eliminate rope drag...

 

Thank you and have a nice day :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice troll.

It will cost more to put the new hardware up than it will to take it down.

I feel pretty nuetral about this whole bolt-chopping thing at Index but it seems clear to me that the anchors being chopped are being selected carefully.

That does not mean it is totally "OK" but to blast away with pure rhetoric makes the blaster look uninformed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So if it has been established that this station was in place before 1980 (put it during the 70's). Again, quite possibly older than the person that chopped it.

---------------------------

The lower town wall crag is kind of weird. I've never seen so much ego, wiring of routes, attitude, and sandbagging of any other individual Washington cliff. Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index.

-------------------

Leave history as is and have fun climbing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The first time I rope-solo aided Iron Horse I was unable to figure out how to get past the blankness above the fixed pins, and had to resort to aiding rightwards to that anchor. I was a n00b and out of my depth. I didn't realize I could have just down-aided. In that respect, that anchor was vital because it let me escape my own folly and learn how to be a better climber without dying or getting hurt, and without committing to going up to the next anchors on wide gear or mandatory free climbing.

with this logic, bolt everything in sight and at 2 foot intervals... :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I too have used the midpoint anchor during aiding, if for nothing else, to practice belay changeovers for soloing, or to bail off in foul weather. At the very least, these anchors may help to keep newer aid climbers off of other more popular free climbs. Iron Horse is a very accessible aid route that is not often free climbed. Maybe without the anchor, those same climbers will not be as keen to jump on it, knowing they can bail partway if need be. It just seems like it wasn't really that benefitial to remove it. It's not like people were often using that anchor and tying up Sagitarious. Sigh.

iron horse not often freeclimbed?? WTF are you talking about????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lower town wall crag is kind of weird. I've never seen so much ego, wiring of routes, attitude, and sandbagging of any other individual Washington cliff. Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index.

I think some of the worst behavior in climbers comes from the "territorial imperative". This is seldom seen in climbers who don't get attached to a single crag.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index.

-------------------

Leave history as is and have fun climbing.

 

It is hard to leave an oasis and journey across a wasteland......

 

 

Make your own history! The best is yet to come.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nice troll.

It will cost more to put the new hardware up than it will to take it down.

I feel pretty nuetral about this whole bolt-chopping thing at Index but it seems clear to me that the anchors being chopped are being selected carefully.

That does not mean it is totally "OK" but to blast away with pure rhetoric makes the blaster look uninformed.

 

No troll. You got a drill and the time to go fix it let me know and I'll send you the money or the hangars. I got more than enough to fund any and all intermediate anchors anybody feels like. Seems like just as good a "point" made as whomever chopped them.

 

"Carefully selected", do we have THE chopper in our midst???

 

So fuck your rhetoric and fuck you, theres your nice day, oh and those are my "carefully selected" words just for you :)

 

I say again (which I have said before), you wanna make a point at Index go take a big fucking brush and scrub something. Clean up a classic, replace crappy existing hardware, do some trail maintenance. Chopping bolts anonymously is just cowardly and makes no point to anyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dave, that anchor was completely bogus. This wasn't an issue of trying to make the washington all arounder climb "harder". It was simply extra hardware that was didn't need to be there. I believe the remover of those anchors didn't fill in his holes though, which is the only negative thing I can see in this situation. I predict this thread will reach epic size. Too bad.
Does not the route go from 5.9 at that point to 5.10b? 5.9 Climbers no longer can do the route.

 

To be honest, I think the lower 5.9 part of Sagitarious is harder than the upper part. The 5.10, which might be a little soft, is perfectly protectable.

 

To me the problem is some idiot chopping without asking an opinion rather than the actual anchor. You can't just go around doing that shit. Not sure if I know this person or not, but it sounds like he's not thinking.

 

This anchor is really not needed and is an eyesore. On Sag alone, you have three anchors in 30 meters. I think leaving two will be fine.

 

 

Edited by TimL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I too have used the midpoint anchor during aiding, if for nothing else, to practice belay changeovers for soloing, or to bail off in foul weather. At the very least, these anchors may help to keep newer aid climbers off of other more popular free climbs. Iron Horse is a very accessible aid route that is not often free climbed. Maybe without the anchor, those same climbers will not be as keen to jump on it, knowing they can bail partway if need be. It just seems like it wasn't really that benefitial to remove it. It's not like people were often using that anchor and tying up Sagitarious. Sigh.

 

Bullshit its not often free climbed.

Besides, I think there are two solid pins you can lower off of if you get in trouble.

Edited by TimL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Tim, remember our first foray on Sag? Hope your well. I'm still recovering from this.tib_fib_019_Small_.jpgMotorcycle related. -Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey Tim, remember our first foray on Sag? Hope your well. I'm still recovering from this.tib_fib_019_Small_.jpgMotorcycle related. -Bruce

Man that's me right now!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I too have used the midpoint anchor during aiding, if for nothing else, to practice belay changeovers for soloing, or to bail off in foul weather. At the very least, these anchors may help to keep newer aid climbers off of other more popular free climbs. Iron Horse is a very accessible aid route that is not often free climbed. Maybe without the anchor, those same climbers will not be as keen to jump on it, knowing they can bail partway if need be. It just seems like it wasn't really that benefitial to remove it. It's not like people were often using that anchor and tying up Sagitarious. Sigh.

 

Bullshit its not often free climbed. Come out of your hole for a little light.

 

Besides, I think there are two solid pins you can lower off of if you get in trouble.

 

It always amazes me how quickly people get excited when things are anonymous. I'm sure we'd be perfectly friendly if we met in person.

 

I've spent a fair amount of time at Index here and there, and from my personal experience, I've not often seen people on Iron Horse. Sag and JG, yes. Godzilla and Thin Fingers, most certainly. Princely and Rogers Corner; all the time. But I've not seen a whole lot of people free climbing on Iron Horse. You've probably spent much more time out there than I have and have seen others free climbing Iron Horse and perhaps have frequented it yourself. But like I said, I haven't. The thread has more or less nothing to do with the frequency of free climbing done on Iron Horse so I'll "crawl back into my hole" and return to my darkness, the conversation regarding anchor chopping can continue with out my "unenlightened" opinions and you can continue being the really nice guy that you clearly are.

 

As for the two pins to lower off of, that was someone else's comment that they bailed onto this anchor because they couldn't firgure out the Iron Horse aid crux. I agree that you can lower off of the two pins and the anchor is most definitely not essential.

 

Whether or not the anchor was relevant isn't the conversation we should be having after the fact. It's what should have been asked before the chopping. Like the anchor or not, you can't be excited about a person or persons going around and making decisions like these that effect the whole community without having a dialogue about it beforehand. Enjoy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The intermediate anchor is still gone as of today. There's also a project bolt (w/ red ribbon) as well as a fixed line to the left of Iron Horse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New project bolt? Amandela is just to the right of Iron Horse. It is bolted...but project bolt?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

amandla is just to the left of iron horse i think you meant to say tim. there is a small red sling on the 6th bolt of numbah ten that an aid climber used to bail off of last week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×