IceIceBaby Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Its been beaten down to the ground, But I need all around Ice axe in 65cm length (I'm 5'11") some steep snow and ice no steeper then 75 I was wondering which is the most recommended and what features should I look for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 THE WEIGHT!!!!! Grivels air tech racing is the shit! alittle expensive but very leight. maybe the grivel pamir heard good things about that axe. Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Best thing I've seen going is the BD Raven. It's light, not as light as the grivel, but lighter than most. The head is very nicely shaped for plunging and carrying in piolet canne. The spike is a much better design than the Grivel. They're cheap too, blems can be had for about $60. The only thing the Grivel has going over the BD is weight. My 2nd choice is the Grivel Air-tech. If I were to pick up another std axe it'll be one of these two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Perhaps difficult to justify at retail, but I have been pleasantly surprised by the Ushba Altai. I was alarmed by the weight, but seems durable enough. I got mine via pro deal, not sure what they cost retail these days. I have the 55cm length, a little short. Lack of swing weight is a problem, but fine for general mtn'ing. You probably have to do a lot of time in the mtn's to justify it. Had a BD Alpamayo for years before that, another solid contender built like a tank (and weighs about the same). Eventually the head came loose, hence my newer axe. I'm sure there are some Alpamayo users out there. Anyone know how to tighten down the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Grivel Air Racing Tech. Everything you need in an axe and nothing more. Very comfortable to hold in piloet cane position. Reasonably priced at Barrabes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 I agree with the Grivel Air Tech Racing. It is a bit light, which can effect its ability to self arrest. Though I feel fine with it and have used it on stepp stuff. I do agree the spike is not the best, but it is not bad either. I wouldn't want to go any lighter for actual mountaineering use, as opposied to a AT Ski axe or backpackers axe for crossing snowfields. Hey imorris, I would send that Alpamayo back to BD. Let them fix or replace it. I'll be willing to bet they will fix it. Maybe you could get a new one, new version anyway. Cheaper but heavy, the REI axe. Simple and built to last. Heavy, heavy, heavy. Not a bad axe, but not my axe either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted March 13, 2002 Author Share Posted March 13, 2002 Any experience with Simond gear Pro/Con Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 I think the deal with Simond is they just don't have any kind of real US distribution to speak of. I believe Terminal Gravity is a Simond fan, he could probably answer re:quality, If I recall properly, the he uses a Simond as a 3rd tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by imorris: Had a BD Alpamayo for years before that, another solid contender built like a tank (and weighs about the same). Eventually the head came loose, hence my newer axe.I'm sure there are some Alpamayo users out there. Anyone know how to tighten down the head? I use an Alpamayo as my regular axe - it's almost indestructible, a bit heavy, but for a general axe I just want something I'll never replace - and I don't think a pound matters for snow slogs. imorris - where exactly did your head come loose? Where the head assembly fits to the shaft - or is the plastic fitting at the top decaying? Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juneriver Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 I love my Simond crampons. I used them exclusively for the last five years and never had any problems. Never had a Simond ice axe, but Barrabes usually has them in stock and I really considered buying Simond tools this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 I second Will. After using/stealing my roommate's on a number of occasions the BD Raven is the perfect balance of weight, durability and functionality for an all-around axe. I actually own an Grivel Air Tech Racing ($55 from Telemark-Pyrenees). It's definitely lighter making it great for alpine rock climbs where the axe is a grudgingly carried neccessity, but for all around use, tromping up volcanoes, climbing steep snow couliors or whacking the occasional piece of ice the BD will be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Yount Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Grivel Air Tech Racing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleeshterFeeshter Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Jumping on the Grivel Racing Axe train. I use an older BD X-15 with stinger pick. It works great and has an agressive pick; however, heavy-very heavy. Friend has the grivel and I am always jealous. Agressive head that will stick and stay in steep ice if you beat the mountain hard enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizard_brain Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Anyone have experience with the Ushba? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 I've just gotta wonder how many of you cats on the grivel wagon (hey I use rambo cramps, so no brand prejudice here) have A/B 'ed the Raven and Air Tech. I have and would take the Raven everytime. The Raven works much better in ice because it actually has some swing weight, more concentrated in the head, and the head is probably the most ergonomic and comfortable axe head to hold in cane or low and high dagger that I've seen. Keep in mind that alpine ice is hard and a little more weight in the head will give you better sticks. For the original poster: go somewhere that has both and examine them side by side. If you other guys haven't seen a Raven itself but are assuming it's just another version of BD's old Alpamayo, take a look and hold one, you'll be impressed I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Will, it's a bit pricey, but it has all the features I think you're looking for: swing weight, comfortable head, decent spike, replaceable pick... yaddah, yaddah. http://www.dmmclimbing.com/www_flash/index2.asp The DMM Alpine Raptor. 55 cm. Say no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Will Strickland -- Once again a voice of reason... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Yount Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 I've played with Air Tech and Raven in a coupla stores..... but never outside. I prefered the Air Tech. But the Raven is definately sexy. FWIW - $59 BD Raven $5 shippingadd $5 for optional cush grip and leash http://www.gx.starvedrockoutfitters.com/cgi-bin/miva?M erchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=4456B70 [ 03-13-2002: Message edited by: Idea Guy ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleeshterFeeshter Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 Jman, Do you own one of those raptors? They do look like they fit bewteen my heavy X-15 and the Air Tech. I am going to take my Titanium Spork back to REI and refi the house and sell the car and kick the Ho out on the street to get one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by cj001f: imorris - where exactly did your head come loose?It came loose where it attaches to the shaft -- those two little bolts. It is still usable, just annoying. quote: Originally posted by cj001f: Anyone have experience with the Ushba? See my above post. The Ushba was my replacement axe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpine_Tom Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 [ 03-13-2002: Message edited by: Alpine Tom ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenolith Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 re: simond. I dig their stuff. i have simond scorpion crampons and really like them. re: axe. i have a 60 cm cassin dragonfly (got it for $50 from climb max in ptld) it is about the same weight as the air tech -maybe a tiny bit heavier. has a nice sliding ring leash and swings well enough due to the steel head. I hate the spike on the air tech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 Yours is a different Alpamayo than mine if it has a screw holding the head on - mine has the ice axe standard press fit metal cylinder(ala Rei, etc.), which if your careful, you can punch out & replace with a similar type fitting - or use a bolt(unsightly) A little epoxy might add some filling to fix teh wobble. Or you could just send it back to BD. quote: Originally posted by imorris: See my above post. The Ushba was my replacement axe.Twasn't me asking about the Ushba Bro - I'm with the 'Mayo till death do us part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 Yes, mine has those little spring metal things, sorry for the syntax error. I guess I'll try to pop them out. Would be a bummer if they fell out later though. I could just see someone yarding on the axe shaft and the head comes off. I meant that Ushba comment for lizard brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by CleeshterFeeshter: Jman,Do you own one of those raptors? They do look like they fit bewteen my heavy X-15 and the Air Tech. I am going to take my Titanium Spork back to REI and refi the house and sell the car and kick the Ho out on the street to get one of those. As a matter of fact, I do. Price wasn't any more than the aforementioned Grivel (if you search for a deal). Weight is not really all that heavy either. The Raptor is THE most comfortable axe I've ever held, and that (in my book) overrules a couple of ounces difference with others. I'm really suprised that I have yet to see anyone else with one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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