gt5816v Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Trip: MT Thielsen - Classic Route Date: 6/9/2007 Trip Report: My buddy Zak and I arrived at the trail head at 10am after seeing a black bear run across the road. Book said 4-6 hours up and back... The weather was overcast but the summit was visible as we hit the trail. Hoofed it up to the PCT intersection with a few sections of snow covered trail. It's every bit of 4 miles in my estimation , different books call out 3-4 miles. Weather started moving in as we got on the climbers trail. Not much snow on the way up, glad I brought axes, pons, rope, screws, etc.. Clouds descended, visibility was 50-100ft and it started misting. We hit the summit spire at 2pm. I looked at it and kicked myself for bringing any gear. If there were some visibility I would have dorked around on some of the other routes but given the conditions I decided to suck up my gear mistake, drop the pack and free up the 5.0 route. The summit is so small it was kinda spooky in the fog. I couldn't see anything but what I was standing on and I knew it dropped probably 500ft onto the south slopes... Scrambled back down picked up my anchor and proceeded down the ridge. Gained the trail and slogged back to the trail head. By 6pm we were back on the road and then another black bear ran across. Then :brew: Gear Notes: I wasn't sure what the conditions would be like higher up so I just brought all my stuff. I'd say for a June and later or possibly even May and later climb no technical gear is needed. Approach Notes: Mosquito's weren't too bad and totally disappeared by the PCT. I'd like to climb this sucker in winter, not sure if the highway is plowed though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Nice Road is plowed in winter. A few TRs in the TR Index have good pics of winter conditions. Great winter climb. Did you see any bolts on the summit pinnacle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Nice Did you see any bolts on the summit pinnacle? Why do you think there are bolts on the summit pinnacle? Nice job……Me and Crimper did it about 3 years ago. Car to car in 5 hours. We soloed it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Reports in previous TRs mentioned the addition of 2 bolts sometime in the past 2 years or so. I wanted to see if anyone had removed them yet. No need to debate it. No need to spray about it. Just looking for a yes or no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 John: There are a couple of bolts on the pinnacle. I was up a couple summers ago. I have read that most people don't rope at least in summer (I didn't) but I saw at least two bolts. If the rock was a bit more Jeff, Jack, or Washington-like, I'm sure there'd be more roped teams! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Just saw your next post. They were there as of 8/27/05. Have not been back since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Independent of the fact that a lot of people free solo it is the fact that ample amounts of natural rock protection placements exist. If options for natural protection exist on a climb then bolts are unneeded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 I wasn't intending to comment on whether they are needed or not, simply that I saw them. No offense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 I would say if bolts go in.....it should be for a rapell. That down climb kind of sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt5816v Posted June 21, 2007 Author Share Posted June 21, 2007 I didn't see any bolts but there was a sling in good condition. I could have easily missed bolts given the conditions though. I was really shocked how long it took us but we were f'n around with mole skins and gearing up and down with the weather changes. I guess I better learn how to use my BC skis.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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