Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Jedi

Mark W & Collin H going for Denali Diamond

Recommended Posts

They might be summiting today. Hopefully the weather is good.

 

Jedi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First ascent by Bryan Becker and Rolf Graage in 1983.

 

Kenton Kool tried to bum food from me at 17K feet after he and Ian Parnell did the second ascent in 2002.

 

Fumitaka Ichimura's team did the third ascent in 2005.

 

I don't even know why Mark and Colin are bothering with the DD; That shit's all climbed out.

 

S_Face_McKinley.jpg

South Face of Denali with Cassin Ridge in the center. I don't know where the DD route is, but it somewhere on that face to the left of the Cassin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
They might be summiting today. Hopefully the weather is good.

 

Jedi

 

Hey - you're back! How was the trip??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kenton Kool tried to bum food from me at 17K feet after he and Ian Parnell did the second ascent in 2002.

 

 

WOW! You've been on THE BIG D??? Did you summit??? Tell me more! Did you leave a neutrino? Hehehe

chestbeat.gif

 

 

Yeah, why didn't Colin and Mark go for Light Traveler instead? ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Diamond isn't that diamond looking thing on the right of the Cassin? That's what I thought it was, but I've been wrong before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Denali Diamond is left (west) of the Cassin; it's near the SW face / Roberts variation; basically they go up the rock then hug the right side of that hanging glacier. The American Direct and Czech Direct are right (east) of the Cassin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The denali diamond has been climbed 4 times. The last was by Chris Brazeau and Ian Welstad in 60 hours in 2005. They bypassed the two pitches of aid by a M4/5 variation, and spend most of the time climbing in Capilene. The route is between the rib and the cassin. Sweet line. If anyone has any serious interest in Light Traveler or the South Face in gerneral let me know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any word from the land of gianormous mosquitos and flies with insatiable thirsts? Inquiring minds want to know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Billy,

I wish we had the time to get by and see you after we flew out. After the Cassin, we dropped down to see if any lower day routes (or west ridge of hunter) were in. Snow condition were too poor so we decided to head home to see family. 27 days was long enough. I was looking forward to some fresh salmon!

 

Billy is right about the DD. once past the rock section, you follow the snow up and join the Cassin around 17,700 or so.

When we left 7,800' camp, Mark and Collin were planning on heading up the VoD the following day. The weather forcast looked good, for a change.

As of 6/18, the success rate on Denali was 43%.

One out of 24 on Foraker so far this year.

 

 

 

Jedi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So did you have enough food? How'd the homemade sleeping bag work out?

 

When are you going to put up pix and a trip report?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Food.....heheheehe.. yeah we had plenty. The outback oven was sweet! Blueberry muffin cake is great for breakfast. fresh baked browies were stellar for dessert.

 

We slept in the bag at 7800 camp. Then at the base of the Cassin. It was damp at the 14K camp. When we got it out at 16,700, it was mostly frozen so we drapped it over our lower legs and just slept in our clothes. My feet were cold but we were warm enough.

 

I have to figure out how to use I Photo before I can put a slide show together. The valley of death did not make for good photos due to the heavy clouds impeding our view (and vision) a good bit of the time. We had heavy snow above the Jap Couloir so the arete pictures are not all that good.

I do have a couple video clips in the 1st or 2nd rock band but I do not have a clue what to do with those.

 

At this point

TR

59:20 from shrund to summit which would have been faster if not for having to dig for ice and holds.

Evan rode a cornice off the arete.

Beautiful route.

 

Jedi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congrats! It is a beautiful route; sounds like you climbed it in style. It was nice meeting you & Evan - I imagine I'll see you up here again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That would be Mark Westman with Colin in AK. Marko was actually busy trying to crush his personal record on the Tooth this past Saturday (almost got it too). :cool:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yep. Colin and Mark were just kicking it at 14k when I left. They were busy scrounging food, skiing, and telling all sorts of inappropriate, but hillarious, jokes. The forecast was wrong nearly every day we were at 14k (calling for bad wx, but getting good wx), so no one was really going for big routes until Jedi and Evan went over to the Cassin. the boys were right at home chatting it up with all the ladies that were unfortunate enough to walk by... :laf:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Doods,

 

Yep, it went. Weather was great while on route, and then has shut down pretty bad since then. The climbing was really high quality on excellent rock - sometimes quite hard, but never scary. We climbed the rock wall in 21 hours, and then slogged above for a couple hours, super dehydrated, until able to dig out a bivy ledge at around 16,500. We didn't leave our bivy the next day until 2pm, and eventually summited at around 9:45 I believe, making a shrund-to-summit time of I think 45:40.

 

akicebum is correct about the number of ascents. I think it took Ian and Chris 44 hours rather than 60 though?

 

Great you meet you and Evan, John, and thanks for lending us the nice gear. We never would have made it up if Mark had brought his lead-filled mittens on route!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

44 schrund to summit. 60 BC to 14,000. NIce job guys, you flew. I've would love to get back to that face. Congrats.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great you meet you and Evan, John, and thanks for lending us the nice gear. We never would have made it up if Mark had brought his lead-filled mittens on route!

 

Does Mark use those for donkey-punching the sheep?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×