therunningdog Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Trip: Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse [FFA/FKA] Date: 6/1/2007 Trip Report: Ben and I climbed Guye Peak a couple weeks ago via the Improbable Traverse. We decided to climb the peak a bit differently than most. Always thinking outside-the-box, Ben opted to climb Guye in the traditional Kyrgyz Kalpak style, while I opted to send the route Fez style. As far as we know, this is the first Kalpak'd ascent of Guy(FKA), and probably the first Fez'd ascent, too(FFA.) If anyone knows otherwise, let us know, because we'd like to smoke a hookah and drink mare's milk with them. We headed up on a Wednesday night and after a couple of Sessions(beers), slept at the pullout in the little subdivision, and by 6am Thursday were walking on the loosey-goosey-rockey-goodness that is Guye Peak!!! The Improbable Traverse route is basically right above THE FEZ. Wat wit all the loose rock that Guye Peak is known for, we were both happy to have the protection of our special headgear. Doing the funky Kalpak at the rope-up spot. We simuled for a short while until we ended up below this crack system below the Lunch Ledge that Ben headed up. We were at the level of the Lunch Ledge at 7:30am, so we didn't eat lunch there. Getting ready to head off over the famous Improable Traverse can really cause you to shudder! Looks can be deceiving. It's an airy, fun pitch that leaves you feeling a little run out, but it's not hard. After the Improbable Traverse pitch, the climbing is basically done, and it's fez nice scramble to the summit!!! At the summit! We didn't stay long. We bonzaied back to the car and I was back in my sad cubicle by 11:45. A good way to start a workday. Nah, I take that back. A GREAT way!! Gear Notes: Small rack to 3". Fez. Kalpak. 2-12 oz. Sessions the night before. Fermented Mare's Milk Approach Notes: If possible, try to go up the cruddy scree slope when you are still half asleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 I find this highly improbable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Tim, you can fit a lot of junk food and cinnamon rolls in a hat like that. Good to have along on our next alpine adventure I think. Better bring it next week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mythosgrl Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 This is hilarious!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skitchmo Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Is this new climbing gear available from my local REI or do I need to order from a more specialized dealer like Mountian Tools or the AAI gearshop? I am also wondering if any special training is involved? Inspired in Bow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 'tards day out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Way to get in a climb before work! Excellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Nice work up there. But realize that its not really complete until you bring a little mini car with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therunningdog Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 Is this new climbing gear available from my local REI or do I need to order from a more specialized dealer like Mountian Tools or the AAI gearshop? FEZ and KALPAK are available at Uncle Borat's Happy Haberdashery in downtown Bishkek. Fermented Mare's Milk (Kummis)can be procured at any of the roadside stands along the Pamir Highway. Next time Guye will be sent Shriner Style! Beep beep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glm Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Fermented Mare's Milk - I knew I forgot something! By the way, I must disagree - the scree cannot be fully appreciated when half asleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 funny report. I find this highly improbable i agree--Sessions are 11 ounces each. we're onto you weird hat folk. never trust a gypsy, rotary, or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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