JayB Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 http://www.professorpaddle.com/media/videoview.asp?File_Id=1545 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serenity Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 That guys balls are officially made of brass. Cool vid, thanks for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snide Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 superdave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Brass Balls... and Smut and The Bone and Crack of Doom. All from a guy who "quit" climbing. Fuckin impressive... Â - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 He looks different, must be the lack of a t shirt on his head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Yes, but his little laugh at the start is all Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 The guys filming this stuff must have been impressed because they made that special high-pitched "woo!" noise when the climber "turned The Bone." Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Wow....where is that? What is the grade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Was up snomo-boarding by Van Epps this past Feb. Some solo dude rolls up and starts yammering about the Boving route on Dragontail, turns out it was Dave's brother Dan. He offers to show us some "exciting" terrain. We get to this HUGE open bowl and Dan beelines 1000' straight to the top, turns up a narrow coulior, charges through it and turns out just below the rocky ridge top. I just shut my sled off and watched in awe. Â Apparently the extra large steel sac runs in the family... Â - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Alford Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Wow....where is that? What is the grade?  Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon  Smut 10a Brass Balls 10b The Bone 5.9 Crack of Doom 10a/b  I was up at Castle a few weeks ago getting my ass handed to me on Devils Fright/Delight  Super mellow Dave sails past me on Crack of Doom like it is 5.6. Dude has good head space!   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 That's bold. 10b is an oldschool rating (castle rating) for Brass Balls, I'd call it c or d. Pulling through the first roof your body is parallel to the ground (can't really tell in the video), and you have to swing out and pull up on jugs. The crux for most people is pulling through the second roof on insecure finger locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Having climbed w/ SD a couple times, these climbs are nowhere near his limit. Didn't he move to Ouray and blow the locals minds? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 That was what blew me away. On that first roof he didn't swing anywhere. It made it look like some slab overlap on the Tooth or something. Â He did pause briefy at the second roof crux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Damn! And he wasn't even wearing a helmet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Damn! And he wasn't even wearing a helmet!  Oh oh  Braceing for hard left turn helmet discussion.......  Nice video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJScott Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 I just did brass balls with dannible for the first time a week or so ago...thats a fun route! all the beer at uli's clouded my memory and i thought it was a 10a...second roof got my attention for sure...I like the way he climbed it, the lie back thing looked way easier than what i was doin. cool footage! doods a solid climber for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 Since we talkin' "Brass Balls" and soloing, here's a couple of snappy pic's of my buddy "pope" going "leashless" on that scary route a few years ago. Note: he'll be the first to tell you that he's "toned it down" since the kids came along and you'll rarely see him these days without a rope on anything serious...although "serious" is a relative term. Â Â Here's a close-up of the roof moves: Â Here's a close-up of the roof moves with a dog-head on "pope". Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 On that first roof he didn't swing anywhere.[/qutoe]Â Notice his right foot is jammed in the crack, then the left foot goes on the jug well under the lip. That solves the swinging problem. Â Â He did pause briefy at the second roof crux. Â I remember hand jamming (palms away) while swinging the left leg onto the spike. You can sit on that thing with toes hooked under some overlaps and have both hands free for placing gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 up of the roof moves with a dog-head on "pope". Â Â Ain't that IceGirl's dog? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye69 Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 that must be really hard wih a dog head on..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 Geeze! He makes brass balls look like 5.8. Whenever I lead it, you would think it clocks in around 5.11b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted June 12, 2007 Share Posted June 12, 2007 I just climbed BB for the 1st time last Thursday. Awseome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Thats fucking smooth. Good headspace for sure, he's got that shit dialed. Even busts out the cliffhanger for style points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Damn proud solo Pope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Damn proud solo Pope. Â Â "Those were the days!" Â I gave up that kind of foolishness when (don't laugh) my mother found out what I'd been up to....it made her cry. That and a couple close calls and I realized life could be satisfying without going to the point where only a smear and a finger jam existed between a gratifying experience and closing the final chapter of my story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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