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counterfeitfake

[TR] Washington Column, Yosemite - The Prow 5/27/2007

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Trip: Washington Column, Yosemite - The Prow

 

Date: 5/27/2007

 

Trip Report:

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Me and my buddy Mike climbed The Prow on Washington Column.

 

It was good, pretty straightforward climbing. We both have about a year of real aid experience under our belts and managed it just fine. The fixed gear on the route is in good shape right now, and I was even a little disappointed that I didn't have to place any bashies or do any tricky hook moves. A little disappointed.

 

We initially planned on spending two nights on the wall. After we got down to the valley we changed our minds and decided to ferry gear and fix some pitches on Sunday, spend one night in the portaledge and then one night on top. This went well. We fixed two pitches Sunday afternoon (could have done the third too). Monday morning we got up early and cruised until pitch 7/8 which we strung together, and which posed some minor routefinding difficulties. I cleaned this pitch in the dark. We set up the ledge on "Tapir Terrace" which was kind of disappointing, not really that bad but not as good as we had pictured. We might have found a better spot in the daytime, the topo doesn't make things crystal clear.

 

The only real goof-up we had was when I was so in the groove leading pitch 9 that I blew way, way past the anchors (there are no bolts here, it's two pitons in a corner and the supertopo reflects this... i was just not on the ball). Mike started yelling when I had 25 feet of rope left, and told me about the lack of bolts on the topo. I was in a totally unacceptable place to build an anchor. I looked up and saw that I was about 30 feet away from the "5.0 gully" so I went up, pulled out some rope stretch and built big anchors in the parallel cracks. It turned out well actually. Do watch out for the haulbag eating flake on this pitch (pitch 10), a directional piece for the haul line is indeed necessary.

 

Pitch 10 has a really nice belay station with a shady tree above it. Very good for napping. Hauling the fourth class crap at the top was pretty rough. We were on top at 5 pm and gorged ourselves on extra food, and slept under the full moon with a nice view of half dome across the way.

 

The descent down the North Dome Gully is gnarly. Be prepared. We had a trip report and supertopo's instructions and we got down but it took forever and was a harrowing time. You might think about rapping Royal Arches or something.

 

When we got down we were hot, sweaty, exhausted and fed up. We both decided aid climbing was for idiots. But I'm already thinking about doing some more. Sick.

 

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This is what an approach looks like. I think you've seen it before.

 

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There's our line. You can follow it up to the diamond-shaped shadowy roof in the very middle, then left and upwards along the lighter-colored streak.

 

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Mike leads the first pitch.

 

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Looking down from somewhere in the neighborhood of pitch 5.

 

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Mike belays while I lead.

 

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On the 'ledge in the morning.

 

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Half Dome across the valley.

 

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The anchor in the gully.

 

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On top.

 

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Mike is strong.

 

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Saying so long to the valley.

 

 

Gear Notes:

We brought whatever supertopo says to bring... it usually seemed like a little more than we needed. Hybrid aliens or something like that would make several of the pitches easier. Brought bashies and some pitons just in case but they didn't get used. With the weather the way it was we should have left sleeping pads behind.

 

Approach Notes:

Kinda strenuous but short.

 

Descent Notes:

Hold onto your butts.

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"We both decided aid climbing was for idiots. But I'm already thinking about doing some more. Sick."

 

reminds of a line i recently read in The Onion: “the 'sweet spot' where self-hatred and physical suicidal ability overlap is extremely small.”

 

nice work, guys.

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Yeah, the prow is sort of a clip up, I remember back cleaning forever, just bring draws for the countless heads, pins, rivets and bolts. Proud line back when Robbins put it up (solo i'm pretty sure). Maybe it could use a cleaning ala Zodiac, then you'd get your tricky aid moves for sure.

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