woodchips Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I'm in the market for a new lightweight harness for alpine and glacier travel. The harness I have now is fine for rock stuff, but absorbs a lot of water and is fairly heavy to begin with (+/- 13 oz, I think.) On the extreme end, I've looked at the CAMP xlh95 (about 3 oz), which might be OK for easy glacier stuff? The description says it has two gear loops, but the pictures only show 2 tiny vertical loops; maybe you add your own? I realize this is a pretty specialized piece of gear, and I'd really only plan on using it for easy glacier stuff. I've looked at the Alpine Bod, but it's not really all that light. Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I've used the XLH95 on some mellow glaciers and some mellow rock (toof, prusik). it's not too painful for rapping. i rack gear on a sling over the shoulder. for belaying, i clip the biner through the loop of rope where i tie in. for rapping, i clip the biner through both tie-in points. i love the light weight and compact size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTM Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Products/NewEliteSeriesHarnesses/EliteMensAdjustable/ not much more than a pound. i haven't worn one, but I hear they're mighty comfortable. otherwise a swami might work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchips Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 So, does it not have any gear loops? I'm thinking of somewhere to store a few pieces for glacier travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchips Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 I like WC stuff, and that looks like a great harness, but I's got more padding than my pack! I'm really looking for something w/o padding, and pretty light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 it does have those small loops on the side that will fit 1-2 biners each. you can clip a biner in and use the biner as a "gear loop." not a big deal on a glacier because you're not carrying much. you might be able to use your pack for racking gear too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 You could sew a few gearloops on to the harness. It's not hard and would not affect the strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchips Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 Thanks, Gary. I'm baker and rainier soon, and this harness might be just the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchips Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 You could sew a few gearloops on to the harness. It's not hard and would not affect the strength. That occurred to me. Might weigh just as much as the harness! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 You could also girthhitch, or otherwise rig, a hero loop to the harness as a gear loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 If you want light harnesses you should get yourself down to Pro Mountain Sports. Jim is an expert on light harnesses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchips Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 If you want light harnesses you should get yourself down to Pro Mountain Sports. Jim is an expert on light harnesses. That's actually where I looked at the harness a couple of months back. Jim's been really helpful w/ gear, and puts up with all my newbie questions. I even got a tour "behind the curtain" (upstairs .) I'll check it out again when I'm up there this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 (edited) I even got a tour "behind the curtain" (upstairs .) Just remember, despite whatever Jim tells you, there is no sex in the champagne room. Edited June 4, 2007 by robmcdan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcus Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I've been using the Petzl Adjama lately as a decent all-rounder... Pros: *Light(-ish) at 435g *Adjustable leg loops *Real gear loops *Some padding, but doesn't absorb much water *Fully functional climbing harness(not only just a glacier rig) Cons: *No haul loop *Drop seat attachment(hook) in rear gets trashed and can unhook if doing much chimneying. Certainly not the lightest, most bare-bones rig on the market - but for me a good compromise between weight and functionality. As I see it, why get a harness you can only do one thing with? At just 1lb, I use it for sporto stuff and lotsa alpine applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchips Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 I've been using the Petzl Adjama lately as a decent all-rounder... Pros: *Light(-ish) at 435g *Adjustable leg loops *Gear loops *Some padding, but doesn't absorb water too bad *Fully functional climbing harness(not only just a glacier rig) Cons: *No haul loop *Drop seat attachment(hook) in rear get trashed and can unhook if doing much chimneying. Certainly not the lightest, most bare-bones rig on the market - but for me a good compromise between weight and functionality. That's the harness I've got... I really like it for alot of stuff, but I'm looking to shave some weight for rainier and trips w/ long approaches. Also, mine seems to get pretty soaked, maybe I need to DWR it. It doesn't seem like theres alot of harnesses in the range between 95g and 300g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I picked up the Trango Mountain harness from Pro Mountain Sports a couple of years ago and so far it has served me well. It only weighs 9oz, has two gear loops, a belay loop, and is easy to put on. It does not have any padding or a haul loop. Here is a picture: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendershot Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I have the Camp XLH95 too. I used it on the West ridge of Prusik Peak and was worried about taking a lead fall on it, but rapped off it just fine. Now I use the BD Alpine Bod. The Camp harness was perfect for Shuksan last weekend. I wouldn't use it for anything more than a glaicer harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 I have taken a few lead falls on my camp XLH 95 (Victoria's secret lingerie harness) and it is actually more comfortable than an alpine bod. The 3oz camp harnesses are great for anything alpine, even difficult rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MountaingirlBC Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 I liked the Petzl Adjama too but found that it just didn't fit me very well. I posted a review of it here: http://www.summitpostgear.com/gear/1177/adjama.html I'm totally loving the Black Diamond Diva now though: http://www.summitpostgear.com/gear/3108/black-diamond-diva.html It's super light and incredibly comfortable. I haven't worn it with a pack yet but I expect that the gear loops might not work too well with a hip belt so I'll probably cut them off and rig something up with webbing. They make a men's version called the "Phoenix." My climbing partner just bought one and loves it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 The Mammut Alpine Lite is my favorite!!!!! I love it! http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/harness/mammutalpinelightharness.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprocket Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 I'm looking at the Mammut Alpine Light and the Trango Mountain. I'd like to be able to use it on moderate rock climbs (along with easy glacier climbs), stuff that is mostly running belays and no hanging belays. Any experience with either of these in this type of use? Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 So I'm lookin at that thing... my harness weighs 14 ounces, that's 4 ounces more. 4 ounces of padding that means it won't kill me at a hanging belay. I use this harness for almost all the climbing I do. Do you really care about shaving off that 4 ounces? I realize that true adherence to the light-and-fast mentality means reducing the weight of everything you can. But at some point I think it turns into pointless gear dorkery and a waste of time and money. Maybe you're going light on each trip, but your gear bin at home is getting pretty heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 You could make a diaper harness out of 9/16ths webbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 You could make a diaper harness out of 9/16ths webbing. except that a double 9/16th sling (which isn't even long enough for a diaper harness on a guy my size) weighs 3 oz... you'd save .3 oz over the camp; if you are thin enough to get buy with just a double... of course its much cheaper than the camp harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprocket Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 My current harness is a Petzl that weighs in over a pound and is bulky to pack, a 9 oz. harness would save over half a pound and I would like one for glacier climbs, just curious if folks have experience using them on moderate to easy rock routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.