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Mattski

Infinite Bliss chopped- true or false?

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Rawdong, are you still spouting? You are like the kid in the back of the class who keeps making noise for attention. Look at me! Look at me!

 

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well at least some things are a constant here.

 

an annual IB slugfest, and the thread degeneration...thats why i like this site.

 

joe, i wish you success on your ascent of whatever line you climb there.

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Rawdong, are you still spouting? You are like the kid in the back of the class who keeps making noise for attention. Look at me! Look at me!

 

Hey HIGH_ON_ cock.jpg

 

Are you still contributing nothing of substance?

Why would I want to look at an attention-whoring rebel like you?

 

Join your buddy Kevbone on the short-bus and have the driver pick up a few of these on your way home:

 

pullups.gif

 

 

 

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"There is nothing exceptional about it except the extent and length of its medocrity and mendacity."

 

I like reading your posts in general, Joseph, but whenever you make personal value statements about a route that by your own admission you have not personally seen or even attempted or completed, you just look like an idiot.

 

You are equally free here to laud the exceptional qualities and bleeding edge attributes IB lends to climbing. I don't need to climb a 22 pitches of bolts to make 'value statements' about its existence or the trade-offs of establishing such a route where land managers would take exception to it.

 

Actually, it seems to have been lost on you that not only do I not recommend the route in general [1], [2] but I would support its removal based on the power drill in wilderness argument [3] , as I've already mentioned in this thread a few days ago.

 

We hold the same opinion, only came about it differently.

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Hey Bill.....I keep getting cool stuff......now I dont have to leave the computer....I can just piss myself right here. All thanks to raindawg.....Cool!

 

 

pullups.gif

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We hold the same opinion, only came about it differently.

No, actually I did note that. But I've been climbing for long enough to make that type of judgment call. Sort of like not needing to wade through twenty-two thousand lines of assembler to make some basic 'value' statements about programming in it.

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But you don't have to climb a route to have an opinion.

 

 

You can’t say shit about a movie you have not seen; you have no foundation to dis the movie just upon what others tell you about it. What make this different?

 

Or how about sweaty man-love? How do you know, Kevbone, until you've tried it? Or maybe you have.

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INDEX was hopping this weekend which was great - if you're gonna do ANY community "service" work - come scrub some stuff at index!

 

I've been hearing this a lot lately. "Oh man, Index was totally crowded. It ROCKED!"

 

Not crowded - everyone had a place to climb and it wasn't bothersome - it was great to talk to other index fans and see people out - I'm not a solitude climber I guess - hate the yosemite crowds though - don't get me wrong...

 

---Have I stumbled onto Mr. Markell?

Edited by Telemack

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this threads needs 2 priests - one young - one old

 

"the power of christ compells you!"

"the power of christ compells you!"

"the power of christ compells you!"

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"There is nothing exceptional about it except the extent and length of its medocrity and mendacity."

 

I like reading your posts in general, Joseph, but whenever you make personal value statements about a route that by your own admission you have not personally seen or even attempted or completed, you just look like an idiot.

 

You are equally free here to laud the exceptional qualities and bleeding edge attributes IB lends to climbing. I don't need to climb a 22 pitches of bolts to make 'value statements' about its existence or the trade-offs of establishing such a route where land managers would take exception to it.

 

Actually, it seems to have been lost on you that not only do I not recommend the route in general [1], [2] but I would support its removal based on the power drill in wilderness argument [3] , as I've already mentioned in this thread a few days ago.

 

We hold the same opinion, only came about it differently.

 

What about Rap Wall?

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We hold the same opinion, only came about it differently.

No, actually I did note that. But I've been climbing for long enough to make that type of judgment call. Sort of like not needing to wade through twenty-two thousand lines of assembler to make some basic 'value' statements about programming in it.

 

cuz you're special and all...love yer double standards, babe!

 

:rolleyes:

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Can’t wait to go climb this climb! 22 pitches with a 45 minute approach! Does it get any better?

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It will be gone before you get on it. Might have a secondary objective just in case.

 

They aren't calling it "Briss" for nothing. Big chop!

 

Damn thats funny... :lmao: (the Briss part only, funny play on words)

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Can anybody say it was really NECESSARY to rap bolt on El Capitan so that magnificant deeds can be accomplished? What really was the value of this, and what was the statement they were making? Isn't El Cap, the greatest icon of American rock climbing, and the first ascent route in particular, the shrine of American rock if there ever was one?

 

I'm not really attacking the accomplishments of these very gifted and dedicated climbers, but I'm curious about this idea that they deserve to employ practices that should be forbidden to lesser climbers.

 

This is a good question. It was at the heart of the quite vocal free vs. aid controversy surrounding Todd Skinner's recent free climbing spate on the Leaning Tower. Many Valley aid climbers were incensed at the addition of free climbing bolts to aid classics. There is, and for some time has been, a real push in the Valley towards free climbing aid routes - witness Tommy and Beth's free climbing two lines just this past week. The folks advocating this push such as Jardine, Shultz, Sandahl, Hill, Skinner, Smith, Potter, Hubers, Ninov, Caldwells, et al have always taken the stance that free climbing has priority and can exercise the same license as aid climbers did before them to accomplish their goals - even on the same lines.

 

In the end, it is another... gasp ...value judgment to be made by everyone, individually and collectively. The bolts placed on the Nose and Prusik represent deliberate tradeoffs and are very much a direct result of this thinking that freeing routes is or should be the main priority of climbing. It's not exactly my sentiment and I likely would not personally make those same tradeoffs myself, but I do have some sympathy for their view on the priority of free climbing. More on that battle at these ST threads:

 

Free climbing on established aid

 

Drilling on the Hot Rod?

 

Vote - Should Skinner's bolts be removed?

 

Todd Skinner's Response to the Wet Denim Controversy

 

[ Note: Please don't feel like you have any right to an opinion on Skinner adding bolts to established aid lines on the Leaning Tower until you have climbed his line... ]

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Quite unfortunately, yes. He was rapping after having just freed Wet Denim Daydream with Jim Hewitt and naming the variation Dry Lycra Nightmare.

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Can’t wait to go climb this climb! 22 pitches with a 45 minute approach! Does it get any better?

 

 

Yes it can. Better quality rock for one.

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Yes it can. Better quality rock for one.

 

What long rock routes would you recommend as being better than this one Kenford?

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Eldente: I don't see what you are looking at, I don't see him talkin shit about anybody. He's saying that it is an issue for some folks and put some links on if you want to further investigate.

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I don't really care if someone decides to put up a route with bolts or not but could some thought go into it? At least try and establish every 2 sets of anchors within 200' of each other so that double rope rappels get one down from anchor to anchor. In addition if drilled on rappel one must make sure that they take into account the weight of the drill and associated gear on rope stretch. I see many routes where the belays are arbitrarily positioned and make for inefficient descents.

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