Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
MrC

[TR] Washington Pass - The Fin 5/29/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Washington Pass - The Fin

 

Date: 5/29/2007

 

Trip Report:

Beautiful day in the Cascades on Monday as Ken Small and myself led two Mountaineers on their first climb of the season.

 

We left the hairpin turn a little after 7, trudging gradually uphill through a hard crust to the ridge, alternating kicking steps. A sketchy self-belay followed to the valley floor as we began to again head up toward The Fin, left of Tomahawk.

 

Interesting snow conditions and mixed route finally put on the saddle between the two peaks.(almost 5 hours) We dropped gear, and headed right, to the first belay station.

 

We had two rope teams, I went second and scrambled up rotten rock to about 50 meters. Used 3 pieces--a small metolius cam and two nuts. Route finding was tricky but the climbing was low class 5.

 

Second pitch was uneventful, about 20 meters with no reason to place pro or even have a belay. 3rd pitch was the best--I got to place my new cam, an omega pacific and I have to say it worked sweet!! The 3rd pitch ended with a friction slab to the final summit push.

 

No rappel down, we self belayed in the now very soft snow over to where we dropped our packs. The climb took about 3 hours, including the traverse back over.

 

We then headed back down to the valley floor, plunge stepping and a great glissade. The two students kicked primo steps for Ken and me back to the top of ridge (thank God for the young!!)They deserve a toast!

 

More plunge stepping and an epic glissade by Ken and the other two brought us back down and trudging the last mile or two to the road. Car to car, about 12 hours.

 

Gear Notes:

I took too much--a few slings and a medium set of cams would probably do--although to protect the crux on pitch one, you need a pretty small cam.

 

Approach Notes:

After descending the ridge, there is large rock in front of you, take a left and gradually gain elevation to the saddle between Tomahawk and the Fin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any more info on the route? I just moved to mazama and if its good then I would like to try it.Any chance you have a picture and could draw it? Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Becky's guide a bit, one of the students took about 100 picks, I will post them when sent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, Fin is low 5th class, but I don't remember anyone mentioning a 5.11 climber. Heck, there are decent 5.6-5.8 on Liberty or SEWS, which are my limit for fun...

 

If you are climbing 5.11, you have my awe!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark, it's been far too long! Nice to hear the climb went well. I saw Ken's Forester at the hairpin when we were driving home Monday and thought of you guys. I'm sure Ken's glissade was indeed epic!! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×