goatboy Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 Trip: SEWS - S Arete (up) - SW Couloir (down) Date: 5/20/2007 Trip Report: I have a few pictures I will post later... I have climbed these routes before, but always enjoy them both. It was wonderful to be in the mountains after several weeks stuck in town... The weather on the East Side was much better than forecasted -- cold and frozen snow, (mostly) blue skies, and little wind. I like to approach these two routes up Spire Gully (from the hairpin) instead of from the Blue Lake TH, due to the ease of descent directly to the car...basically, a fifteen-minute glissade! Route conditions: Good for S Arete, not good for SW Couloir. S Arete: Mostly dry rock, some lingering snow in places which actually improves the quality of the route somewhat in my opinon. SW Couloir: super firm snow and alpine ice, but melted out at the top, revealing very loose bedrock and kitty litter. No fun to climb at this point, I'd say...downclimbing the couloir is a viable option, however, when the S Arete is full of folks (as it often is)... There was a party of 7 (from Skagit Alpine Club) climbing in two groups on S Arete, but they kindly let me climb past them on the 1st pitch. Nice folks. Seemed like a mix of experienced and new climbers... There was a Spokane party of 2 ascending the couloir, but were high enough in the gully that I could rappel past them without pelting them with rocks. As I downclimbed the couloir, only one large rock came down my way, so I appreciate that they were aware of me down there.... Also ran into an old buddy from the WSU Alpine Club, Paul, and found out that we both live in Seattle now...small world! As I drove back west again, I stopped to take pictures of a few things along the way...and as I got west of the crest, the weather turned to shizzle pretty quick. It was raining super hard in Seattle when I pulled into the driveway.... This morning, I am pleasantly sore and happy to have been in such a lovely place, if only for a day... Gear Notes: I took a harness, a 30-meter 9 mm rope, a cordellette, crampons, and two light ice axes for downclimbing the couloir. The 30-meter rope allows a rappel over the rock step which you can walk to from the summit onto down-climbable snow.... Only used one ax for much of the downclimb, but the alpine ice section was nice to have two... Approach Notes: Hairpin -- > Spire Gully -- super good glissade back to car and Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 21, 2007 Author Share Posted May 21, 2007 One additional note on S Arete: I observed that the bolt on the knife-edge hand-traverse near the summit has been pounded flat by someone who is either contrary to adding bolts to traditional routes, or opposed to the large groups and guided parties whom this bolt largely serves. The bolt is located in a fairly inconspicuous place on the climber's left of the ridge, where many don't even see it to begin with... My comment: I don't think the bolt was really useful to begin with -- the climbing in that section is exposed, but super-easy and can be made even easier "en cheval." But I also know that the bolt has been there for a long time (at least 10 years). Curious what would spur someone to flatten it NOW? I fear that this won't decrease the size of the groups or guided parties on this crowded route, but it might slow them down and make even more of a bottleneck than it tends to already produce... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 I fear that this won't decrease the size of the groups or guided parties on this crowded route, but it might slow them down and make even more of a bottleneck than it tends to already produce... Of course you are correct. It will have zero effect on the number of people climbing the route, it has zero visual improvement because the bolt wasn't pulled. It only makes the traverse a little less safe. The deed was done by a moron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 I bet the groups you met from SAC are their climbing class. Should be around that time of year. And yes, they are cool people, that's why I was a member for three years. SEWS is an undervalued, work off the winter beer fat, climb IMO. Plus the scenery is worth the trek alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 I wonder if someone could now pull out the mangled bolt and fill in that hole? Shouldn't be any reason not to, now that it is useless for climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 Depends on whether they flattened just the hanger or mangled the bolt too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macson Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 Is it flatter than it was? It's been fairly flat for some time now. Last year Memorial weekend I was up there and you would have had to snake a runner through it to use it because it had already been pounded down so a biner wouldn't fit. I went up again in July and it was the same. IMO it takes a special kind of dumbass to flatten it to make it useless, but still leave it there as an eyesore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 why? If the bolt is fine the hanger can be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chalmsky Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Siiiiiiiiiiiii! Well done lad. Wish I could have been there with my pliers to help unflatten that bolt. It will make the Chalmsky travers that much more treacherous! See ya in a few!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Chalmsky! Good to see you here! Remember to bring your pliers for future ascents...or at least a bottle of hooch... - gb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serenity Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Of course you are correct. It will have zero effect on the number of people climbing the route, it has zero visual improvement because the bolt wasn't pulled. It only makes the traverse a little less safe. The deed was done by a moron. I agree with your opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kullaberg Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 very interesting all this talk about the elusive bolt. didn't notice anything when sonja and I did the route the weekend they opened the pass. jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 Nice photos. A good example of how the snow can improve the alpine character and quality of the route! The bolt is hiding on the climber's left of the narrow rock fin near the top - I believe it's shown in the second picture you posted, though it looks a lot snowier here than I'm used to seeing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter jenkins Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Climbed it a few times? Last time we were up there, we counted thirty something between the three of us! And shouldn't you be getting out more? Lots of spray, not many trip reports. And learn how to ski would ya. Keep in touch old man, I miss ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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