New Route?/North Face of Broughton

[Stewart]

Climbed Gandolfs to the top and saw a bolted line going up the left side, past a roof. Super shiny bolts, runout, at what looks like the crux. Makes me think its an open project. Anyone know about it? Bolts should be painted in my opinion.

 

 

Stewart

[letsroll]

Not ho highjack the thread, but how many new routes have been put up since the last Portland Rock climb book has been published??? It seems quite a few. Does anybody know most of those routes?? Heck or all of them??

 

Now for then next question. What do people think of updating the guide book. Would it be worth the time??

[wayne]

I looked at that years ago and it wil be very hard , good luck

[letsroll]

what were some of the issues you ran into??

[markd]

snoop,

this link should answer your question:

http://mountainproject.com/v/oregon/broughton_bluff/105878883

 

come down and climb!

[hemp22]

Mark's link above is to the 5.9+ new slabby route to the left of Gandalf's P1. There are also some more bolts above that pitch that go out over the roof that's to the left of Gandalf's P2. As far as I know that upper route hasn't been completed yet, but when I was out there last year the guy bolting it (philip) was estimating it'd be mid/hard 5.13.

 

As for the guidebook - there are quite a few new routes at the areas that are already in the book (broughton, rocky, etc), but not so many that it'd be a huge problem. I think the big roadblock is that to do a non-half-assed job of a new Portland book, people would expect it to also include the newer Portland-area crags that aren't currently in a book, and that would make it a much bigger project. All the route-data-gathering & understanding access-issue stuff would be a lot of work.

[kevbone]

 

As for the guidebook - there are quite a few new routes at the areas that are already in the book (broughton, rocky, etc), but not so many that it'd be a huge problem. I think the big roadblock is that to do a non-half-assed job of a new Portland book, people would expect it to also include the newer Portland-area crags that aren't currently in a book, and that would make it a much bigger project. All the route-data-gathering & understanding access-issue stuff would be a lot of work.

 

Yes....I agree.....alot of work.

 

[markd]

As for the guidebook - there are quite a few new routes at the areas that are already in the book (broughton, rocky, etc), but not so many that it'd be a huge problem. I think the big roadblock is that to do a non-half-assed job of a new Portland book, people would expect it to also include the newer Portland-area crags that aren't currently in a book, and that would make it a much bigger project. All the route-data-gathering & understanding access-issue stuff would be a lot of work.

 

i wholeheartedly agree. not enough new routes to matter ( though there is plenty ) and the "new" areas have not had access smoothed out yet.

 

there's nothing wrong with some routes being undocumented - it makes it more fun when you discover them.

[Stewart]

I think I"m going to start discovering P2.

 

Yo Mark, Lucy, lindsay and I send our best to Max!

 

Snoop

Edited May 11, 2007 by Stewart

[Stewart]

So I climbed P1 of Frodo's Journey today. The hangers are actually black, must be the upper pitch with the shine. P2 looks fun.

 

Great route! Until you get to the anchor. One bolt is only half way in and not equalized for rappeling. Had to leave gear to lower down safetly. A few of the lead bolts where spinning, which isn't too big of deal.

 

If you are going to post a route online, shouldn't the anchor be ready for people to climb?

 

Stewart

[Stewart]

Replaced the anchor for P1 2weeks ago. Watch out for poison oak on P2.

[EgoBoy]

I recently climbed through this route. Begin up Frodo's Journey 5.9+ tell you reach a large belay ledge. Follow a moderate slab to the first bolt on a shallow dihedral. Scum and stem your way to the next 10+. Pull around the arete using marginal half pad crimps. From the same crimps reach up into the roof using terrible slopping crimps, work your feet up and reach blindly over the roof. Your hand ends up about a foot from the rail, dyno. Throw your heel up on a far right nub. Mantel using bad side pulls. <-- Crux 1 V6ish. Recover through an off balance sidepull slap section. 11+. Your feet start to disappear as you enter the business of the route. Your left with bad single pad sidepulls and no feet. <--V7 at least. At least some of the sidepulls are incut. The goes for a about two bolts, making the clips quite tenuous. The moves somewhat reminded me of the Metolius move on Churning. It is also very possible to blow it on the last move as you move (desperately) from sidepulls to pulling down.

This line is somewhat similar to Freight night. Due to the large amount of low probability movement. But with a somewhat more reasonable finish. I found no glue or obvious chipped holds.

The FA, Philip is calling the line Dark Tower. It would be a stout 13b if not 13c.

[hemp22]

were you on the climb yesterday (Thursday)? from the parking lot we saw people up there. it looked like someone was on that line. also looked like someone was at the top of Gandalf's P2 & couldn't tell if they were together or 2 different parties.

 

 

[EgoBoy]

We climbed both routes. Oddly enough, I hadnt done Gandalf's.