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Animal

[TR] Whitehorse - North West Glacier 5/5/2007

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Trip: Whitehorse - North West Glacier

 

Date: 5/5/2007

 

Trip Report:

On May 5-6 Patrick, George, and myself climbed Whitehorse via the North West Glacier. When we were looking at the mountain from the road, a local asked "why" we were doing the glacier route because there was a slight bush problem. Well after doing the trip, we all knew "why' because the bushes kicked some butt and Olympic brush monkeys need a good butt kinking in the Cascades once in a while. Actually the glacier route was very fun and scenic. Camping on the upper part of the glacier was a treat. It turns out that several people did the Lone Tree Pass route this weekend, so we had a packed sidewalk and some great glissading on the way out this route.

 

Below are some picts of the trip -

 

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Gear Notes:

40m rope, crevase gear, and snowshoes for the soft snow.

 

Approach Notes:

Straight up! Remember green belays are your friend in the bush.

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Looks like a great time, pity you didn't take any photos of the green fun down low. Is it already too late for the brush to be covered up?

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We did Lone Tree Pass on Sat. Summit was socked in. There was a huge group of Mounties up there but all but four turned around. Good going on the direct route. The brush is nasty.

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pity you didn't take any photos of the green fun down low. Is it already too late for the brush to be covered up?

 

IT TOOK LIKE TWO HOURS TO MOVE THREE FEET, BELOW IS PROOF

 

IMG_0800EDIT.jpg

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We did Lone Tree Pass on Sat. Summit was socked in. There was a huge group of Mounties up there but all but four turned around. Good going on the direct route. The brush is nasty.

 

We were wondering who made all the steps. We saw about nine people on Sunday, but I think it was socked in for them too. Somehow we lucked out and got a quick weather window. Sloan looked awesome from up there.

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Oh, how I hate that brush whippen, but it sure is nice once you get above it.

Nice job. White Horse is on my personal hit list.

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No skis, Animal? :cry:

 

Now we know we should have had skis, down with the heel for George, and free the heel for me. Patrick - get some gear, and next time we will ski!

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No skis, Animal? :cry:

 

Now we know we should have had skis, down with the heel for George, and free the heel for me. Patrick - get some gear, and next time we will ski!

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Roboboy and I did this route as a day trip last year. I think we hit the approach just right because it was surprisingly not bad at all or at least not as bad as I had expected. Nice work!

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Looks like a fantastic trip guys! I've often wondered about that main shute and how it would work with a ski/snowboard descent.

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We did Lone Tree Pass on Sat. Summit was socked in. There was a huge group of Mounties up there but all but four turned around. Good going on the direct route. The brush is nasty.

 

We were the Mountie party of 6 (I would not call that huge) who broke trail for everyone else (11 others, who were private). And no, we weren't the ones carrying the wands.

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What did yall think of the windpacked snow up top? I was getting high quality shears 2" down and 18" down, originally moderate difficulty at High Pass, but then hard difficulty on the glacier.

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I've often wondered about that main shute and how it would work with a ski/snowboard descent.

 

I would totally ski what we climbed, and it would be a real adventure getting your skis through the bush, it might even be fun. I think skis would be much better than snowshoes we used. If done earlier there may be more snow down low, but I would expect a more wintry experience.

 

 

 

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Here's a brush shot:

113432.jpg

 

 

 

Is this picture taken on the right side of the lower glacier approach? I saw this on a previous TR, and was wondering?

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What did yall think of the windpacked snow up top? I was getting high quality shears 2" down and 18" down, originally moderate difficulty at High Pass, but then hard difficulty on the glacier.

 

The snow up the glacier was stable, and nothing sheared away. Where we did locate our tarp on the glacier, I did notice the layers you talked about when building a snow wall.

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There were 6 in the group I went with Saturday. My trip report is on summitpost. We did benefit from others stomping the snow to the summit. All 6 in our group, including two nubies made it. It was my third try. Once via the Glacier, once Lone Tree. This time was Lone Tree. Great Spring trip. Glad we did it. Congrads on the Glacier route!

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