catbirdseat Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Ah, then the jokes on me. McKillop lied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprocket Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 So has Bourdon gotten flak for changing grades in his Select Guide? Usually he changes upward, Corner Crack 5.8 vs. 5.7 in McLane. Â I did notice that he grade downward on some routes that McLane had the first ascent, Orphan 5.8 vs. 5.9 in McLane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 different authors different opinions  Orphan was 5.8 in the Campbell guide and feels 5.8 to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 You are full of shit cbs. I have the Culbert, Smaill and Campbell guides right here and it is Boomstick in all of them.  Bull fucking shit. I have Smaill right in front of me, and it's Broomstick.   Ah, then the jokes on me. McKillop lied.  I showed you the goddamn book, remember. You saw it with your own fucking eyes. Broomstick  Why are you two such dweebs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 No it isn't. must be a typo in your copy of Smaill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 From "A Climbers Guide to the Squamish Chief and Surrounding Areas" (Woodsworth 1967) Â The Boomstick Crack ascends from Broadway to the trees leading to the upper Squamish Buttress and the South Gully. From the last trees at the south end of Broadway, climb left (Class 3-4) along the top of the prominent exfoliation flake for 2 leads to trees. (First ascent: 1961 - Poul Nielson, Jim Sinclair, Jim Baldwin) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Nerd fight. Can I join?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 Only if you collect guidebooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Does the Exit 38 guidebook count Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 I've always called it broom stick crack untill I was corrected. Â I'm sure boom sticks are used to blast attacking sharks. Â Orphan is solid 5.8, Corner crack is an easy 5.7 flying circus 10a should not be made 10b polished or not. Â Didn't worlds toughest milkman get upgraded for .8-.9 in the new guide book? Â What does it matter anyway? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 (edited) No it isn't. must be a typo in your copy of Smaill. Â No, it's not a typo. It is refered to as "Broomstick" once on page 78, three times on page 79, and once again each on pages 67, 103 and 109. Â Â Edited May 11, 2007 by Markmckillop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 sure sounds like a typo to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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