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Jelf

fledgling trad rack

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Does any body know of any forums or threads that discuss starting up a trad rack... from carabiners to cams? It would be great if there were talk of personal set-up and talk of their reasons for choosing that set-up. Most folks tell me that they have what they have becasue that's what they learned on, but every once in a while, someone says a little gem that I haven't thought about. I'm looking for those gems... know where I can find them?

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curved wired stoppers are very handy and cheaper than cams. They will round out your thin rack. I have a few small cams I would sell. PM me if interested. Happy to talk more too. It is a broad subject and I am a slow typist.

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Some of the new stopper designs such as those by DMM and Metolius seem to work better than the traditional designs offered by Black Diamond, or Wild Country. For example, the Metolius nuts work way better in flared cracks.

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Start with Knots and and a good set of Balls. When the wallet allows, buy some nuts, then cams, then hexes, then start adding the specialty stuff that you will by then know you want.

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For example, the Metolius nuts work way better in flared cracks.

 

How would any nut ever work in a flared crack? You still need some constriction.

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just buy it all and pick and choose as you go... I would, otherwise buy what you can afford and put whatever peice fits, pretty simple

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many climbers today fail to consider the all-round versatility of rope-slung nuts. you can't fashion a prussik from a wire-slung stopper, and the sewn slings provided on most cams are too short to effectively double as a runner or prussik. dog-bone quickdraws are also a limited-use tool, and I don't bother to buy them for that reason. open runners are far more versatile. by all means buy a few cams, but don't overlook passive pieces. You can buy a rack of hexes or stoppers for the price of a single cam... and there's no such thing as too many carabiners.

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I have recently been enlightened to the glory of tri-cams. If I were to build my rack again, I would consider getting tri-cams instead of stoppers. Thoughts?

 

I love hexes, too, for lightening up on those long approaches and/or doubling up on large cams. I have 8, 9, 10 and 11 hexcentrics.

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#11 hex = coffee cup

 

Nuts and Tricams are complimentary. It's like chips and salsa.

Tricams and regular cams are like chips and crackers though.

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#11 hex = coffee cup

 

Nuts and Tricams are complimentary. It's like chips and salsa.

Tricams and regular cams are like chips and crackers though.

 

Nice analogy. I can see where you're going with this, but it begs the question: do crackers go with salsa? :confused:

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#11 hex = coffee cup

 

Nuts and Tricams are complimentary. It's like chips and salsa.

Tricams and regular cams are like chips and crackers though.

I happen to like coffee. :ass: I also happen to like chips, salsa AND crackers. What to do, what to do...anyway, not a problem right now as my rack is already plenty big.

 

Actually, the #11 was a gift; I probably wouldn't have bought it myself. :pagetop:

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I always carry a few RPs: tiny brass nuts for aid climbing. They won't take much of a fall, but when it all goes wrong and all you've got is an RP and an impossibly tiny crack to either aid on or protect a few tough moves, you'll be SOOO glad you carried the extra fraction of an oz. They stick in cracks very well, so they're also useful as a second nut to keep a regular (beefier) nut from walking out of a placement.

 

Or you might just run it out 20 feet on an RP because that's all you've got, like a certain partner did just recently. Spicy!

Edited by tvashtarkatena

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Tricam.jpg

 

DO NOT BUY ANY OF THESE. These all suck ass.....there is such better technology out there to select from.

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Tricam.jpg

 

DO NOT BUY ANY OF THESE. These all suck ass.....there is such better technology out there to select from.

 

it is a matter of taste. some people dig tri cams and some do ont. I happen to think they suck ass cus they are harder than hell for me to get out. however my climbing partner who does the majority of the leading becuase i am a total pussy, loves them and places his all the time. they results in me falling alot trying to get them out, but then if he falls he doesn't die. ya give a little you get a little and it all comes out good in the end :)it's really hard to tell people what to buy or what not to buy. each person really has to try all the options and work out what works for them. I like nuts. i like nuts more than i like cams. but thats just me.

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Does any body know of any forums or threads that discuss starting up a trad rack... from carabiners to cams? It would be great if there were talk of personal set-up and talk of their reasons for choosing that set-up.

 

Please note that Jelf didn't ask you to discuss this endlessly like squirels in a tree.

 

Jelf: Try this to start: tradgirl.com link

 

But, for some areas - tricams SUCK. However, in some they rule. You need to look at what people are carrying near you when you climb. Here's my list of things I like (buy what you like and spend the extra cause whey buy it twice? (reposted)

 

 

DMM belay devices and wired nuts

HB offset and RP brass nuts

Misty Mountain harness's (I have a Cadillac and a Sonic).

Trango superlight lockers rule for small lockers

Wild Country Heliums are the Lamborghinis of biners

Dmm makes a great Munter style locker too which is very light so I try and have 1 or 2 on me.

Aliens to Orange

Offset Metolius TCU's and offset Aliens (later for you, don't worry about these now)

BD Camalots from Green up. I also have the extended range Trangos which I like, but make sure they are cranked down when you stuff them in the cracks.

Metolius cams in that sweet middle range too. (if you look at some of the BD "climbers" you often see Metolius cams on their racks, interesting no?

Wild Country technical friends for the large sizes

#2 Omega Pacific cams are great for people who don't climb a lot like moi.

Shoes that fit.

Trango shark and Ushba titanium nut tools

Chouinard adjustable gear rack or Metolius double gear sling for carrying all that rack.

Ropes: Lanex (called the Metolius Monster ropes now) are the best in the world, I love the feel, but don't want to pay that price. So I buy what's on sale and now have 4 or 5 good ropes from 9.1 -11 mil for various routes.

 

When I started, I tried to buy the pieces which would accentuate my partners meager racks. We climbed on all nuts (with an occasional pin). You should consider those you are climbing with as well IMO.

 

Yes I'm a gear whore.

 

This doesn't even begin to describe it, I'd start with that stuff up there, try and see if you can find someone using it and see if you like it. Ask them what they like about it.... I have so much stuff I have not listed: Valley Giants, Toucans, grappling hooks, Big Bros, Leeper cams (love those), Aiders, Hammers, Rurps, hangers, bolts and bolting gear every piton made blah blah and more useless things than I can comprehend.....:-)

 

My wife will have a hell of a yard sale when I die.

_________________________________________________________________

 

Speaking of yard sales, you might just start here it's last gen stuff but so what, sell it when you've used it a few seasons and are ready to replace it, it was world class state of the art just a bit ago. (currently just posted in "gear sales", like 6-8 thread sdown the list):

 

"These pretty much cover a full size range:

 

Metolius FCU #10 $35

Forged Friend #3.5 $15

Forged Friend #4 $15

Black Diamond 2 (notc4) $30

Black Diamond .75(olderstyle) $25

Black Diamond .75(Brand New w/Tag, not c4) $40

Black Diamond .3 $30

HB FlexCams 0 $20

HB Flexcams 00 $20

 

also have

2 BD ATC $10 each

 

 

All pieces are in good to brand new condition, have been well cared for, etc.

 

I'd love to sell it all in one deal...

 

email:

tbrugh at u.washington.edu

or PM"

______________________________________________________________--

 

Used gear deal link

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Full set DMM Wallnuts + Wild Country Curved Slung Hexes (top 4 sizes) + Pink and Red Tricams :tup: :tup:

Is a great way to start and will cost about the same as 3 camalots.

 

Then add in cams as money allows. DMM, Wild Country Friends, Camalots, Metolius TCU's, Wild Country Zero's, all perform about the same in my opinion.

 

Fill in Hand size cams first (I like DMM), then finger size (I like metolius TCU's), then big stuff (DMM and Camalots). then really little stuff (Zero Cams).

 

I like DMM's, Metolius TCU's and Wild Country zero cause they're bomber, and cheap ($45 a piece). Oh, and all cams except Aliens are now good when tipped out and placed like a nut. They all have cam stops to prevent the lobes from inverting now.

 

Camalots - more expensive, slightly larger range

Wild Country and DMM - less expensive, slightly smaller range

Metolius TCU's and WC Zero cam's - less expensive, sweet action :)

 

If your only buying a couple of cams you might get Camalots for the slight range improvement. If your on a budget go DMM (cost less than 75% of an equivalent Camalot).

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Tri Cams rule. They are a really good thing to have doing alpine routes since they don't weigh you down like the same set of cams.

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Tri Cams rule. They are a really good thing to have doing alpine routes since they don't weigh you down like the same set of cams.

 

will someone pretty please teach me how to remove a tricam???

 

thank you :moondance:

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