spotly Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 (edited) It's a mile or so away from (and visible from) the Two Mouth Lake TH. Anyone know if it has a name? Any developed routes? Looks kinda yummy. Edited April 21, 2007 by spotly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccallboater Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I always called it Two Mouth Dome. So did my Dad, who climbed up it on the easy right side in 1937. So I guess that's what it's called. I climbed it from the top of the tree "V" on the left in the late 1970's. Slabby and fun. Not too hard. I wish I could add more info about other ascents, but most N ID folks keep pretty quiet about those things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Man, mccallboater, you've climbed and skied everything! I'd hate to ask what you've boated. Â I've only looked at this coming and going from a couple other points in the area. Oh yeah, never mind...there's no climbing in North Idaho, none at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I have a couple unfinished lines on the next one up the valley to the north on your way into Two Mouth. It has better pro and is a little steeper. Apparantly Jim Langdon did a line on it in the 70's. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 The dome does look fairly low angle when viewed from further up the trail. There's a few lines on it that look worth hiking up to though - preferably before all the snow is gone from that brushy looking approach. I did notice some nice rock up that valley towards the lake that seemed worth checking out too. How was the rock quality where you were working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 The dome is called Myrtle's Turtle. I (McCallboater writing from Pindude's house) was up on top this morning. Fun. Mostly 4th class on the left hand side. I scrambled up from Two Mouth Lake in about an hour. Go straight E from the lake up the 3rd class slabs and short stretches of slide alder. Pics to come later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 Did you go up the left side as seen in the picture or are you talking about from the lake? Looks like there's a possible line right up the center (just right of the snow patch) that looks stiffer than 4th class? Hard to say from that shot though. I never did make it up there...yet. Looks like a spring trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccallboater Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Not a spring trip. Best right now, since Two Mouth Lakes is known as the epicenter of all bugdom. It's so dry right now that there are just a few bugs to deal with. I came up from the lake behind the Turtle. I must stress the top is a very neat place to be. All granite polish and alpine fir fairy rings. Â There is a possible line right up the center as you inferred. Dan Krumpotich put up a line there years ago I believe. The pro looks marginal, with all downsloping holds, but not too steep. It might be quicker to hike the 6 miles to the lake and go up to the top from the lake, then downclimb the 4th class on the left, than to force your way up the slide alder in the avalanche chute from the road. Of course, you will pass other temptations on the way there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 McCallBoater, got any stories/pix/beta on the Lionhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccallboater Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 None worth mentioning here. But the new book  http://www.keokeebooks.com/ClimbersGuide.html  should have something. My wanderings up there have been without climbing partners, unfortunately. Nice stone though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 They keep pushing the publication date back on that gig, starting to wonder if it's ever gonna go off. Guess I should call Bessler and ask him directly. Â Nice stone indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 I was hoping to pick one up on my drive through there today but the publisher said it's running a few days late. She expects it Friday (tomorrow) and will be shipping a bunch out to Mountain Gear in Spokane. Sounds like Monday or Tuesday for Spokane then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I'll ride my bike down there tomorrow and check it out if I remember. Should be cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Vandeforde's has 3 copies left as of 4pm today. Â It's amazing, really well written and tons of info, sure to piss off lots of old schoolers. Â Best part is, it has none of my area's and none of my (ok, but only a few) projects that I was worried would get exposed. Â Bonus, half the approache descriptions to routes I'd never thought of climbing go like this..."scramble thru the huge bolderfield, you can camp among the massive bolders". Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 The book says the north face standard route rolls right up the center starting at that wedge, called The Apron. 6 pitches. Top two supposedly amazing run out slab climbing. Â 5.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 Sweet! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Get the book is all I can say. Holy shit, I stayed up until 2pm reading it. Psyched to buy a rope all of a sudden!!! Â Also, that 5.5 route attacks the weakness of the wall and he references tons of potential for hard slab climbs. Â Who's got a hand drill they wanna sell cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 Just checked with Mountain Gear and Mountain Goat and neither one of them have the book yet  Where's Vandeforde's - Sandpoint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Yeah, on Cedar Street 1.5 blocks West of the Cedar/1st Street Corner, where the old coldwater creek bridge was...263-2417 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 Grabbed mine at Aunties in Spokane. 3 copies left. The route I was interested in is the one to the left with the question mark but I'll be more than happy to try out that 5.5 on the right  So far, looks like a nicely done guide but I'm surprised to see him perpetuate the Rusty ratings out at Post Falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake_Gano Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Where's Aunties? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 402 W. Main, Spokane, WA 99201 (509) 838-0206 Â The map store on Sprague has 3 copies too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 Started a new thread just for Laird's new guidebook here, so this thread can stay on the topic of Myrtle's Turtle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccallboater Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 (edited) More pics of Myrtle's Turtle, for those interested.    From on top    Close up of the exfoliation on the 4th class side Edited August 26, 2007 by mccallboater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccallboater Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 Huh. I thought that placed the pics in the message. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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