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great climbing quotes


knotzen

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from Eiger sanction:

 

Dr. Jonathan Hemlock: It's dangerous, child, to come to conclusions when you don't have any facts. Now let me lay some on you. Sure Dragon knows what he's doing, just like he knew what he was doing when he worked for the Nazis during World War II.

Jemima Brown: What?

Dr. Jonathan Hemlock: Oh, you didn't know that, did you? Yes your "wrap him up in red, white, and blue" Mr. Dragon's a goddamn Hessian, that's what he is. And he'd sell out the other side as fast as he'd sell out our side. And he'd sell out his mother, too, if the bloodless freak had one.

 

 

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- Want a beer?

 

- You gonna call room service?

 

-We got beer.

 

-If you hauled beer up this rock, you're insane.

 

-I may be insane, but I'm not stupid. I didn't carry it, you did it. It's in your pack.

 

 

That whole movie is an epic quote, pretty racy language (non-pc) too. I had the pleasure of pulling the beer in the pack move on a fellow Eiger sanction fan, complete with the above quotes, a couple of years ago. I had to sneak the beers into his pack a couple of pitches before the top to pull it off though.

 

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"As we unloaded packs at the parking lot, two young ladies approached us to ask if we were THE Yosemite climbers... They asked if it were true that Yosemite climbers chafe their hands on the granite to enable them to friction up vertical walls. We assured them that the preposterous myth was true." Chuck Pratt, 1965.

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- Want a beer?

 

- You gonna call room service?

 

-We got beer.

 

-If you hauled beer up this rock, you're insane.

 

-I may be insane, but I'm not stupid. I didn't carry it, you did it. It's in your pack.

 

 

That whole movie is an epic quote, pretty racy language (non-pc) too. I had the pleasure of pulling the beer in the pack move on a fellow Eiger sanction fan, complete with the above quotes, a couple of years ago. I had to sneak the beers into his pack a couple of pitches before the top to pull it off though.

 

Rum packs lighter (Smaller bottle for same kick) Just place it with the first aid kit so your wife (if she see's it, or asks) thinks it's part of the medical supplies.

Took pepermint schnapps once. Made everything we mixed with it taste like toothpaste.

Funny how climbers will discuss (argue) over who should carry what up until the medical supplies are discussed...then there are plenty of volunteers :brew:

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Dave Anderson told me once, on an attempt of the North Norwegian Buttress, that Don Harder said:

 

"I don't know about you fuckers, but I'm going down"

 

Any truth to this Don?

 

Don is a Zen Master of profanity, equaled only by Jack Nicholson and a handful of others....

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Continually question climbing pursuits. Do they draw one back to the climbing community? Or do they lead along the [inner] path? This questioning generates a tension that is heightened by disillusionment. Ultimately, one reaches an emptiness, and this is where our basic spontaneous nature leads to the beginning of the path...Thereafter one can continually stand apart from the outer world of climbing, yet at times be fiercely involved in it. Philosophical and mystical dimensions emerge when the two worlds are brought together.

 

Words to live by :tup: :tup:

 

John Gill doesn't post here. Please use proper references when referring to my hero.

 

:wave:Erik

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As requested, from a night when Dave and Ken were feeling the love:

 

"Damn. Had it not been for that two-by-four you would have shut the fuck up finally." AlpineDave to Ken, after the object he hurled at Ken was deflected

 

"What a whiney little bitch. You, yes, you." - Ken to Dave

 

"You fuckin touch me, I'll fuckin rip your nuts off in your sleep." - Dave to Ken

 

"Hey, who the fuck put their shit all over my shit?" - Ken

 

"I did not call you a pussy. I did not use the P word. I said....I don't know what I said." - Ken

 

 

 

 

 

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"For God could no longer be found in his traditional steeple houses. But seemed to dwell more vividly in the bare austerities of his earth's high places."

 

From Ascent, the bio of Willi Unsoeld (Fantastic book!)

 

"If we had some ham we could have some ham and eggs.

.

.

.

.

if we had some eggs."

 

Greg Child I think?

 

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Dave Anderson told me once, on an attempt of the North Norwegian Buttress, that Don Harder said:

 

"I don't know about you fuckers, but I'm going down"

 

Any truth to this Don?

 

I don’t remember saying that exactly but it certainly sounds like something I’d say.

 

It was the summer of 1974 and there were four of us, Dave Anderson, Don Brooks, Dave Davis and myself throwing down a pretty serious attempt on the Norwegian Buttress. Just hiking up there with all that gear was serious. There was very little evidence that anyone had been there before us-a few pitons and slings half a pitch or so off the ground. I’d heard that Jim Madsen and Kim Schmitz had made a half-hearted attempt in the 60’s.

 

Anyway, we’d just spent a miserable night on a crummy sloping ledge in slings and homemade hammocks three or four hundred feet off the deck. The next half rope-length was up this steep, leaning, crumbling rurp seam with multiple bad rurp and copperhead placements in a row, most of which fell out when Dave Anderson jugged the pitch. The next several hundred feet overhung dramatically, filled with hateful looking loose blocks, just waiting for some greedy, ambitious little wannabe rock star to give them a try. Nobody was tripping over themselves to get on the sharp end of the rope. That’s probably when that shocking ejaculation passed my lips.

 

I regret not having been more persistent on this route. The way we were trying was the most direct, most aesthetic way up the wall. We only had to make it through the loose block section and we would have been on the incredible headwall, split by an incredible crack that went most of the way to the top. I think Pete Doorish bypassed this section by taking a line further to the left. Can’t blame him, really.

 

 

______________

 

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True story. 1984, gearing up by the Indian Canyon road at the base of Supercrack, a Winnebago pulled up beside us and the nice old lady struck up a conversation. When asked if we were rock climbing, we replied that we were. The following conversation ensued;

Winnebago lady; "There is no climbing here. The rock is too unstable."

Me; laughter.

Ricky the Italian; "It's OK ma'm, we are professionals."

Lady, somewhat aghast that we would question her judgment; "My son knows. He rappels."

Much laughter.

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Maybe the same Winnebago lady in the Hidden Valley campground in JT at first light in January 87;

"Fiiiiifiii!"

"Heeerrreee Fiiiiifiiiiiii."

"Fiiiiifiii!"

"Heeerrreee Fiiiiifiiiiiii."

"Fiiiiifiii!"

"Heeerrreee Fiiiiifiiiiiii."

"Fiiiiifiii!"

"Heeerrreee Fiiiiifiiiiiii."

"Oh for Christ's sake lady! Your fucking dog got eaten by cayotes. Will you shut up and let us sleep?"

Complete silence.

 

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One cool winter JT evening, a threesome of young ladies pulled into Hidden Valley and joined a motly crew around a lonesome piece of wood smoldering in a fire circle. Malcom-X had lost certain parts in a rock fall incident a few years earlier.

After the girls had been there about ten minutes, Malcom volunteered; "Don't worry about me. I don't have any testicles so I just want to look."

It was a couple more weeks before any females were seen up there again.

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We used to call gapers "Wuffo's" after Kurt Kliener was asked by a tourist who had just watched him climb and rappell a crack in the Green River gorge; "Wuffo you be doin dat? You goin t die up der boy."

He later fixed us a damn fine dinner of catfish n grits. I wish I could remember more of his conversation as he had us rolling on the ground all evening.

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