layton Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Trip: Red Rocks, NV - Inti Wantana, Mt. Wilson Date: 4/5/2007 Trip Report: Jay and I climbed Inti Wantana, a mixed sport and trad route up to p15 of resolution arete on Mt. Wilson. It's 12 pitches, crux being 10d, but mostly 5.9 climbing. The "Res" is a much more satisfying route, but Inti Wantana is much better climbing. In fact, it's one of the best rock climbs I've ever done. The 10d varnish pitch is fun as hell. The 5.9 cracks and face are steep, solid and a total blast. There's a couple awesome roofs to pull, and the exposure and views cannot be beat! There's a 5.9 bolt pitch that could be the funnest pitch I've been on. 150' of vertical petina, all holds positive, plenty of bolts but not too closely spaces, and the exposure is mind blowing. 10/10 star pitch 9/10 star route. The approach only takes 1.5-2.0 hours, and it's a rap-off...which in red rocks sucks. I had to re-lead a pitch and down-climb cuz I figured the rope would just get stuck again. Some other beta for other routes. Windy Peak Routes: don't bring a rental car on the road. We got stuck in the sand traps and had to get towed out. Cost us a 1/2 day. Cartwright Corner: Definately not a 5 star route. A couple of terrifying pitches. An AMGA guide fell of the crux pitch (scary!) and broke his ankles. The routefinding is really challenging and we didn't do the last "4th class" pitch to the top since above us was a 8" overhanging offwidth. Still no clue if we were actually on route. Roxanna's and Todd's bullshit topo is way fucked. It is not a continuous corner system. One rope can get you off, but it sucks. Y2k: fun climbing, but the last pitch is a rope drag monster and the ropes get seriously fucked on the rapell since it traverses a lot over horns and cracks. Not reccomended. Next Century: The 10d 2nd pitch is fucking awesome, but really really heady lead. Trust that there will be pro even when you can't see shit. Bring doubles on black and blue aliens (a black protects the 2nd crux!). Left Out: Fun, steep and pumpy, just like the guidebooks says. Chicken Eruptus: Very heady lead, and a hard 10b near the 3 bolts. NO ANCHOR. BRING EXTRA GEAR. I didn't and it got fucked up. Inti Wantana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Awsome!! Got a rental stuck (on two different outings I think) in Windy Canyon approach road. Then on 3rd time found a sedan-friendly road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Roslyn Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 That looks like so much fun. Pretty pictures, I especially like that sensitive man picture of the Jay. Did the two of you host the annual chiropractic convention for strippers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay H. Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Thanks for writing up a TR Layton, you rock. Hi Kat, unfortunately no convention was held this time, but we did make friends with AAA of Nevada (kind of). Also a quick plug for "Frank and Fina's Cocina", mexican food comparable to Santana's outside of J-Tree....soooo good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sill Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Yeah, Cartwright Corner is kinda a shit pile- so is the route next to it, I think it's called chocolate flakes or corner. Not suprised to hear people have gotten banged up on either one of those routes. I wish I would have known you guys were around, I'm stuck in work purgatory here in Vegas for a little while longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 working as a cum sweep in Parumph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sill Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Not quite that glamorous, entertainment rigging. I'm about to quit in the next few weeks so you can have my spot if you get your chiropractors license revoked for stalking children. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Roslyn Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Jay, might you happen to have any pictures from this summer? By the way, I had a great time with you, that was really fun. I still haven't replaced the camera that the bear ate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Roslyn Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 The Mike, I snapped this pic of you awhile ago. I thought it shows the sensitive side of you, it might look nice next to the one of The Jay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Hell yeah dude! that route looks really good. We we out there from the 31-3 and managed epinephrine and black orpheus(unfortunatly no chicken lips link up...), but I was secretly scheming a way to get a few more days for Inti. Would you recommend saying fuck the resolution and just linking inti wantana into the upper resolution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 15, 2007 Author Share Posted April 15, 2007 No, don't finish up resolution. Resolution arete is a special climb and should be done as it is. I would highly reccomend doing Res 1st. It's really a satisfying and fulfilling route, and Inti is like dessert. If you eat your dessert first, you'll ruin your appetite. (read: you'll pussy out) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Nice TR Mike, thanks for sharing - love the pics to, great exposure in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Bummer on the rental car. If you end up starting too far north on the maze of roads there and eventually give up and park (meaning perhaps a 1/2 mile of add'l walking), the roads seem to be better (or at least adequate). Great pix of IW; that route has always intrigued on paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 No, don't finish up resolution. Resolution arete is a special climb and should be done as it is. I would highly reccomend doing Res 1st. It's really a satisfying and fulfilling route, and Inti is like dessert. If you eat your dessert first, you'll ruin your appetite. (read: you'll pussy out) I think finishing inti watana via res arete is a good option (although I have never done the lower part of res arete--I have heard mixed reviews of that route). This way you get to climb more pitches and summit the mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 but then you'll probably never climb resolution arete and that would make you less of a person Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 I did resolution arete this last weekend. It is definately an adventure route. Unlike Layton, we did it in a single day. I was thinking the entire route how bad hauling would suck on res arete. Despite ho-hum climbing on sometimes bad rock, res has some spectacular positions. It took us about 11 hours from the base of the route to the top out. Unfortunately we both thought the other new the way down. After a couple of false gulleys we made it down back to the car at 10:30pm. I kind of got worked but then we saw headlamps still rapping off inti watana and I didn't feel like so much of a gumby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Inti Wantana: Nice pictures Mike. Ever thought about rotating this 180? We could see it better then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 I did resolution arete this last weekend. Which descent did you use, and was the canyon flooded? I'm heading to RR in a couple days and will likely climb a route or two on Mt Wilson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 nice brotha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericandlucie Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Nice pics! We climbed both Inti Watana and Resolution Arete a couple of years ago. Resolution is a good line but the climb is so-so. If I had to do this again, I would definitely take Inti Watana and finish up with the upper pitches of Resolution. Links to TR for Inti Watana and Resolution: http://www.ericandlucie.com/Red%20Rocks/Resolution%20Arete/Resolution.htm http://www.ericandlucie.com/Red%20Rocks/Inti%20Watana/IntiWatana.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 Thanks, I love you're website! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericandlucie Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Quick note: we have reorganizxed our site so the above links will no longer work; please use the links below instead (Links to TR for Inti Watana and Resolution) http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Red%20Rocks/Resolution%20Arete/Resolution.htm http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Red%20Rocks/Inti%20Watana/IntiWatana.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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