Cathedral Peak (WA)

[YoungBoySimon]

Looking for beta on this peak, particularly the S. Face and S.E. Buttress routes, as well as routes on the Monk. Anyone been in there?

Thanks,

John Sharp

johnsharp47@aol.com

[wotan_of_ballard]

SE butt is way better route than s face due to better rock quality. beware of the Monk's rating, Pete Doorish doesn't go to crag areas and he doesn't realize he's gotten better! Monk climbs are probably a full grade low. we started Le Giblet(the hangman) but it semed close to 5.10 so we bailed after a pitch. I've heard that tho shorter the Canadian approach is no quicker than hiking the US side in trail tennies.

[YoungBoySimon]

Woton:

Thanks for the reply. Do you recall how ling it took you to hike in? We've got four full days for the trip, and it would be an east-side back-up to trips on the west side.

Any other tips?

Thanks very much,

John Sharp

[forrest_m]

john - climbed most of the south face a few years ago before bailing off in a thunder/hail storm. lost 4 hexes in that little adventure...

we hiked in via the canadian side (ashnola river road), which was very scenic. we left the car around noon, camped somewhere in the woods, and were at the upper lake just below the pass by noon the second day. it was mostly pretty mellow bushwacking, but there are several miles of lodgepole pine blowdown that make you feel like you're doing hurdle practice with the track and field team. we avoided this on the way out by staying on the high ridge to the north of the valley (sorry, i've forgotten all the names of rivers and valleys by now), several miles of alpine meadows and among the most beautiful hikes i've ever done, before finally dropping down the nose of the ridge to regain the trail back to the car.

i know people who have done the 18 mile trail approach in a single day, so it sounds like it's all about the same amount of time, but the off-trail approach is much more interesting - and empty. you'll have to share the trails with every horse-packer in eastern washington.

the s. face itself is very confusing, it's very hard to identify the features from the beckey guide, but it also seems like most of it is about the same grade - follow your nose and it's hard to end up on terrain harder than 5.8. The rock is pretty good, but has a lot of crumbly surface (a la the bad parts of washington pass) and there are a lot of exfoliated ledges (i.e. where there's a good stance there often aren't many good cracks) but the friction is great and there didn't seem to be much loose rock. The descent is casual and beautiful, traipsing down steep alpine meadows (We scrambled up the back side the next morning to the summit in between rain squalls)

hope you have a good trip

[fredrogers]

Rock and Ice had a TR and route description for the SE Butt of Cathedral in issue #91, page 144. Better than the Beckey Guide description, needless to say.

Have it hanging on the wall in my cube as a motivational tool, be happy to fax it to you if you send me a fax #.

 

[This message has been edited by fredrogers (edited 06-22-2001).]

[Francois]

Cathedral peak is an overrated choss pile. The nicest part of the trip is walking 18 miles through horse shit and dust.

Have fun

Franky

[YoungBoySimon]

Franky:

Erik and I love choss, no doubt as much as you love Copper River Salmon, another over-rated item.

Bone Appateet!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Rock On Simon and have a great time!