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first ascent [TR] Squeah Mountain (1798m) - NE Couloir to N Ridge (FA?) 4/1/2007

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Trip: Squeah Mountain (1798m) - NE Couloir to N Ridge (FA?)


Date: 4/1/2007


Trip Report:

Jordop, J_Mace, Stemalot, Dr.Hook and I climbed this route on Sunday via Deneau Creek. We could 4wd to the first fork in the road at around 540m elevation. From there it's maybe an hour and a half of walking to get to the road end in the bowl east of Squeah.


The most obvious couloir imaginable leads to the col north of Squeah. Good potential for a ski descent. (550m vertical, 35 to 40 degrees). From the col we wandred up the north ridge of Squeah (NTD) in a whiteout until we reached a highpoint that could have been the summit. With visibility about 2m in all directions, we decided that it was, and descended rapidly.



Da route



In da gully.



Summit ridge whiteout. jordop froze an eye shut.



Stemalot doing some extreme jeeping on the way out with jmace giving guidance.


Gear Notes:

One ice axe and crampons sufficient. No technical climbing.


Approach Notes:

Deneau Creek requires 4wd-hc and narrow vehicle to fit past large stump (see photo). Snowline currently 600m +/-. Road driveable to 540m.

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This wasn't Squamish and you guys were definitely not "Squeahmish" (just filling in for Klenke).


Is that avalanche debris we're looking at in the bottom of the gully?

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