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[TR] Icicle Creek - Various 3/31/2007


matt_m

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Trip: Icicle Creek - Various

 

Date: 3/31/2007

 

Trip Report:

First day outdoors this season so somehow it seemed like a good idea to start with Carnival Crack. Got it onsight on top-rope then proceeded to pump out with the lead attempt (any tips on keeping the damn rope from messing with your knee lock welcome) Well warmed up we headed over to 4th of July Rock and did Facelift, Beer and Loafing in L'worth and Return of the Bolt Fairy. All good but Beer and Bolt fairy were a bit dirty (early season detritus I suspect). Did my first ever stick clip (found on the ground near by) on Beer not wanting to do something stupid and ruin the early season. Also note the first two bolts are iffy on Bolty fairy (#2 has some noticeable pitting behind it) and there's some SERIOUS TAT on many anchors up there - bring chains or some nice low viz webbing and a knife if you head up there (forgot the knife this time). So we'd done some offwidth, clipped some bolts, all that was left was some gear climbin.

Headed down canyon to Alphabet rock and lead Z crack and Meat Grinder. Always good and quick to get to. (Note AGAIN: someones stolen a hanger and chain off Meat Grinder leaving only one on top) Starting to get chilly so we pack up again and look for more sun... Leading to my frustration with L'worth late in the day - you never seem to be able to get a good density of climbs in in one place. We bailed to town seeing warm sunshine calling us.

 

Gear Notes: Carnival Crack: 1 9in, 2 #6 Camalots, 2 #5 Camalots (sews it up) and a few smaller cams for the first 15' or so. Bolts on top but no chains.

 

TICKS ARE OUT IN FORCE TOO: Flicked a bunch off out packs during the day and I picked two more off myself that night. God I HATE those things....

 

Good to be on dry granite and in the sun again....

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[(any tips on keeping the damn rope from messing with your knee lock welcome)

 

keep the rope over your thigh on the outside leg...this is a good practice for all climbing

 

also use one big cam up high and move it up as you go...helps keep rope out of the way...feels like a top rope as well

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yo serenity.....care to do some pull ups tough guy? pick a number....ill even let your kid ride on my shoulders

 

THIRTEEN BEYOTCH! Grab a 50 pound sandbag and tie it to your waist and knock em out. If you beat thirteen I'll buy you a can of Canadian malt liquor.

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