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Alpine Ice Tools


cmonster

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I think the Gourdfish is simply trying to imply that Fly's are super light and may bounce around on that iron hard alpine ice, not to stir up a fight... 1poke.gif In which case a pair of those old 200lb. Stubai farmer tools is probably your best bet....

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On softer or more aerated ice the Fly works surprisingly well. It actually reminds me of a quasar sans weight kit. On really hard ice I found it took quite a few swings to get a placement that still felt less secure than many other tools. Less eloquent users suggested it sucked.

It makes sense in my mind to get something that works in all conditions. Granted alpine ice is generally low angled, but when you're 30 or 40 metes out from your last screw, fighting for your life to get a good stick, saving a few dollars might not seem to have been the best or safest idea.

I'm also not convinced that the head will take the abuse that other tools will. Mixed climbing in a mountain environment is probably much harder on a tool than M style dry tooling.

At 170 odd dollars the Fly is a great price, one of about 3 at that price level.

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I just replaced my old Mountain Technology Vertege tools with a set of BD Shrikes with the Alaska picks. I'm reasonably impressed with them so far. True the adze kind of sucks and the point on the top of the picks makes carrying them in the cane position uncomfortable (time to get a grinder to them to solve that one).

The reason I went for these over the Axars is because they have an alpine pick and I really like the BD Alaska picks.

The other thing worth noting about the Flies is that the pick/adze/hammer is a one piece unit making a spare pick somewhat bulky.

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You used Liberty Ridge and the Triple Couloir as routes representative of your objective... for routes of this caliber, I use an antique 60cm ice-axe, and an even more ancient Chouinard alpine hammer. I don't bother with specialized hooking tools unless I expect to see hard ice consistently steeper than 60-degrees.

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