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The best OW's from Squamish to Smith


chris

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Yeah, everyone knows Greg Cameron did the FFA of Pipeline free solo, but they may not know that he also onsight free soloed the Lost Arrow Chimney in the valley.

 

He's still got the chops too, here's Greg on The Crucible last December, a classic hands to squeeze line at Mt Woodson (yeah, it's south of Smith). This route doesn't get done without a rope very often

 

IMG_3370.jpg

 

Note: not my picture, but rather shamelessly pinched from Greg's Photobucket.

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Pitch 2 of Backbone Ridge is a pretty nice one.

Also, the short wide section on NW Corner of NEWS is decent.

Off Tempo in Smith's Lower Gorge is a short one but a nice work out.

OW's on Rebel Yell were nice as they seemed just below vertical.

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This is great! Rumr asked "why bother" and Fqw just gave a great answer - OW's are common on many alpine routes - NEWS, Rebel Yell, Backbone Ridge, Prusik, etc...

It seems like every classic multi-pitch route in the Sierra has one pitch of OW - the Harding Route on Keeler, the South Face of Conness, the Steck-Salathe, on and on...

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Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well.

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Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well.

HA!...considering you had the "big gear that slides easily" it was a sport climb/tr for you! so funny your description on rockclimbingDOTcom vs. this website...hahahaha

:grlaf:

 

" Ascent Note

WWF all the way."

 

you have to admit that if you don't have much mileage on OW, then it'd be "interesting"...otw its just another squeeze to a chimney...

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Here's a good one we did Sunday (way south of Smith). Russ led it, thank god because the crux was in the first half, there was no pro until about the 2/3 mark, and a horrible landing. Hardest 25' of climbing I did all week. It's too tight in the back to get feet up on top of the block/spike at the bottom, so the entry is basically bombay on tight chicken wings, arm bars, and blind feet. Following it:

 

point_will.jpg

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Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well.

HA!...considering you had the "big gear that slides easily" it was a sport climb/tr for you! so funny your description on rockclimbingDOTcom vs. this website...hahahaha

:grlaf:

 

" Ascent Note

WWF all the way."

 

you have to admit that if you don't have much mileage on OW, then it'd be "interesting"...otw its just another squeeze to a chimney...

yeah whatever man! I'm headed for the lower wall. perrrrrrrrrrrrrfect temps and sun to boot!!

 

I admit yes I admit that I onsight tr'd/lead pipeline. yes I was scared. but not nearly as scared as on the slab climb that I had just done.

 

 

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Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well.

HA!...considering you had the "big gear that slides easily" it was a sport climb/tr for you! so funny your description on rockclimbingDOTcom vs. this website...hahahaha

:grlaf:

 

" Ascent Note

WWF all the way."

 

you have to admit that if you don't have much mileage on OW, then it'd be "interesting"...otw its just another squeeze to a chimney...

yeah whatever man! I'm headed for the lower wall. perrrrrrrrrrrrrfect temps and sun to boot!!

 

I admit yes I admit that I onsight tr'd/lead pipeline. yes I was scared. but not nearly as scared as on the slab climb that I had just done.

 

quit rubbin' it in! Dammit...i'm totally stuck on a project that has no time left before the deadline and no budget and we have tons more work to do...f-ing sucks...just wanna say "f-this" I'm going climbing...dammit...

 

PS: slab climbing is infinitely more scary than OW climbing, in my humble opinion...

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