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mman

Hood south side route

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I'm thinking of climbing the south side route on Monday. I've seen a few reports that suggest the route is a little more steep than usual. I've climbed this route a handful of times but its been a number of years since I was last on it and I'm taking a person who has only climbed a few times - will I likely need to set a belay? If so screw or picket?

Edited by mman

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I was up there just yesterday. I don't think it was any steeper than 45 deg. The interesting part of the route is that the hogsback is west of its normal position, so it kinda dead ends in the rock towers left of the pearly gates. You can traverse left to the old chute or right to the pearly gates. Either traverse is a little exposed. Not difficult just exposed. My partner requested that we rope up (primarily because he was not feeling well). Pickets worked fine. The pearly gates were pure rime ice. Not vertical or any steeper than the rest of the route as some have reported, but interesting in aluminum crampons and one alpine axe. I used a screw here and we belayed, but on the other hand a couple of people soloed it. The topmost part of the old chute also had some rime ice but much less (probably wouldn't need a screw).

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Thanks for the info. Seems like the best option on this trip is to bear left and use the "old chute". I'll haul along a couple of light screws - that way I will be assured that I won't need them. Seems like I always lug some gear that never gets used. Better safe than sorry ....

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How's the weather look for monday? It was turning kinda ugly when we were leaving the Timberline. Probably snowed a bunch and you'll find my description totally inaccurate...

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The reports I've read suggest it should start to clear on Sunday afternoon. I'll make a "game day" decision. Pretty sure I don't need to be the next news story on Hood.

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I'm curious to hear how it goes...I was supposed to take a couple guys up through Leuthold on Sunday/Monday, but chickened out because of short weather window. Have a good climb!

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You will just need a few boot axe belays to get your partner above up and down the step. It is really not all that bad, but bring a screw or two if you want to be really safe. The shrund is open.

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boot axe belays have to be done perfectly to hold a fall, even when used in a dynamic belay. use a different belay method to ensure your safety if you are at all concerned with falling.

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Left timberline @ 3:00 am. Weather was clear, cold and windy. Reached the Hogsback @ sunrise - very windy with a number of dark clouds moving in. Appeared that we were the only two on the hill. Given the poor weather forecast and a partner who has not climbed much we elected to bail and spent the day skiing at ski basin. Watched the mountain all day - never cleared but did not apppear to be a major storm on top either. Likely give it a go again in May.

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Sounds like you made a smart call. Bummer you didn't get to the good stuff, but at least it sounds like you had a fun day out in the hills. Thanks for exercising good judgment and not being the next cover story!

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