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PDX Urban Jam Guide...


JosephH

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MisterMo posted up a cool shot of a concrete/bridge hand jam on the 'Wayback' thread. I'm guessing folks must know where some buildering/bridge/retaining wall cracks of various sizes are. If so post up a location and photo if you have one - otherwise we need to go on the hunt for them and post them up here. I could be way, way behind on all this as I basically don't jam anything, but am suddenly getting the urge to learn and don't have time to build a crack machine...

 

I570.jpg

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Kind of out of the way but relevant. Has anybody climbed “Sobriety Crack” in down town Flagstaff? If you have you know what I am talking about. It’s a beautiful fist crack between two buildings in the heart of Flag. It got its name from being in the middle of a climbing town with a bunch of bars in it. They say if you can climb it, your drunk and take your keys away.

 

I have several pics of it on my computer of me and friends screwing around on it but was not able to download them into CC.com. I will try later.

 

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I'm mainly only interested in it for granite. I don't know if I could bring myself to jam out at Beacon. To be honest it's the antithesis of everything I like about climbing. That, and where I came up there were no cracks so never developed a taste for it. Should learn though, but not out at Beacon, maybe Trout Creek, but I'd like some options here in town...

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Joseph, I'm just blown away. Old guard trad guy that you are, and you don't know how to jam? Have you never been climbing in the Valley? I'm flabbergasted. Lots of folks here can help build you a graduated tick list, you should quit your job and hit the road in about a month and don't come back until the end of June. Forget the concrete cracks, they're diverting entertainment, but no more like real crack climbing than the lowliest of gym cracks.

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Off, look at the pic back up thread from SoIll - the rock in Giant City SP didn't have a single crack or edge climb in it - it was all pockets, ribs, and knobs. We were all masters at laybacking. And given half our climbing and climbs was more about a person being able to just see and puzzle out one of our climbs we had little respect for crack climbs which were obvious and just a matter of being able to do them as seeing them was no challenge (also why we despised chalk). Hell, in Eldo we'd layback Supremacy Crack no problem. And pretty much everywhere I've been except the five days I was in the Valley in '00 I've been able to quite successfully never jam at a very high level of climbing. But it was all too obvious in that couple of days on slick, white granite that was not going to fly there. Given I'd like to do some more climbing there, particularly on the left half of Sentinel, I figure I better get the jamming thing down once and for all (or what's left of "all").

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And pretty much everywhere I've been except the five days I was in the Valley in '00 I've been able to quite successfully never jam at a very high level of climbing.

 

Ever think about going to Indian creek? I would love to watch you lay back Incredible Hand Crack.

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Yeah, the Creek looks like another place you pretty much have to have jamming skills. I see pics of lots of corners where you wouldn't, but on those blank walls with splitters and no side displacement you aren't going to get very far laybacking...

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