BC44cesar Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 My friends and I did a quick warmup before heading over to the Middle East Wall on a bolted route on Agathla Tower that starts on a platform right above the trail (sort of SW side I think). Anybody know what it's called and what it's rated? Just curious since I didn't see it in the Yoder guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 I think it's called Better Wear Your Helmet, 5.4, C3+. C referring to the choss rating and not the bigwall clean rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 It is in Yoder's book as House of Cards, 5.8, ten clips. Beware the dreaded Z-clip on that one! Despite what the book says, and by appearances, most of the loose rock has been cleaned by the high traffic this route sees. It is popular because it is so close to the parking lot and stands out like a sore thumb, as the only sport route on Agathla Tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Isn't Middle East Wall closed for nesting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC44cesar Posted March 12, 2007 Author Share Posted March 12, 2007 Thanks, I don't have the guide so a quick glance must have missed it. And yes, while the tower is a pile of choss, as long as you grab the big holds on the route (and stay on route) it is fairly solid (and kind of fun). I tried scrambling up the gully to the east and decided against topping out for fear of dying a stupid death by slipping on the loose rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Its maybe called Menstrating Whale Snatch, or maybe thats another route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Isn't Middle East Wall closed for nesting? To my knowledge, it is not yet closed. We climbed there on Saturday along with a large group of folks from the UW. We had a fun time top roping Jihad. I'd have to say I'm not quite up to leading that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Its maybe called Menstrating Whale Snatch, or maybe thats another route. That is indeed a route name, but it is rather crappy trad route at the near end of Sunshine Wall- "Climb through exfoliating red rock". Clearly a Robins FA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC44cesar Posted March 12, 2007 Author Share Posted March 12, 2007 Yeah, I was one of those people climbing at the Middle East Wall Saturday. Were you the guy I was talking too about carabinier brakes and munter hitches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 That would be me. That was a fun group you had. All good people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC44cesar Posted March 12, 2007 Author Share Posted March 12, 2007 Likewise...I'm sure the two in our group appreciated the chance to use your toprope. It was my first time in the area - great place to climb. I look forward to going back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Were you the guy I was talking too about carabinier brakes and munter hitches? CBS, the CC.com climbing geek :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Were you the guy I was talking too about carabinier brakes and munter hitches? CBS, the CC.com climbing geek :tup: That was the light part of the conversation. Earlier in the day it was Munter Mules and Mariner Hitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reid Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Yeah we did enjoy the top rope sharing. Thanks again. Casey, I didn't know you were on cc.com. I just got a message from David saying you were trying to get a hold of me. I'm on spring break; got any free time yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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