Treating the palms of ice climbing gloves?

[Chad_A]

So, I really enjoy the Punisher gloves that BD came out with. The problem is, I don't like the pricetag (though it's par for the course) and they seem to be wearing a bit faster than I'd like. (Yes, I do need to buy a set of rappel gloves admittedly, but given the marks on the leather, it looks like the hangers of the screws are doing the most of the damage.)

 

I'd like to treat the palm with something to make them a bit more durable. Will wax, or SnoSeal, help? If nothing else it might make them more waterproof. I'm concerned about these making the palms more slippery, though, since I really enjoy climbing leashless with my Ergos these days.

 

Any input? I really wish the bargain bin leftovers at the local gear shops had any sensitivity, but they don't.

[ryland_moore]

I actually just had to send these gloves back to BD because after one weekend of climbing with them, the seems started to rip apart from placing screws. I would like any info. on this. Otherwise this will not be the only pair of BD gloves I send back....

[catbirdseat]

I don't think that a boot seal will make the palms more slippery if you use a modest amount and work it into the leather. It will make them more waterproof, but not protect against abrasion.

[Chad_A]

Well, shit. Maybe I'll turn them into REI for a new pair, and start looking for better options, glove-wise.

[Jens]

Seam grip the seams (in the REI kayaking department in a white REI bottle with a tapered tube).

Then Nikwax the palms, let it, dry soak em' in water for an hour and them let em' dry. You don't want gobs of nikwax on your ice axes.

[dbb]

I nikwax the palms of my gloves and it actually makes them a little tacky. Don't put too much seam grip on the palms of your gloves. Put a little on such that any exposed threads are "sealed" but do not try to make the seam "waterproof". Waterproofing is a lost cause, and all that seam grip on the palm will make the gloves way less sensitive.

 

you really need some SNAGs (sensitive new age gloves)

[Rafael_H]

... If nothing else it might make them more waterproof...

VW, are they not waterproof? I have not seen these, so looked at BD site and it says "BDry insert". How "dry" are they?

 

I am looking for a thin dry glove and BD's look to be better than OR's.

 

Thank you.

[dbconlin]

I've been using seam grip on the area between thumb and forefinger, where my gloves tend to wear out fastest, most likely from rope handling and rappelling. This has worked really well. The most recent gloves i bought, i did this before using them at all. It definitely helps them hold out better.

 

If you already have a split in the leather, you can use needle/thread to stitch it back together and then put seam grip over that. Works well and can breathe at least another season back into a glove that is otherwise trash.

[Chad_A]

... If nothing else it might make them more waterproof...

VW, are they not waterproof? I have not seen these, so looked at BD site and it says "BDry insert". How "dry" are they?

 

I am looking for a thin dry glove and BD's look to be better than OR's.

 

Thank you.

 

No, no, relatively speaking, they're fine. The leather on the palm does seem to soak up some moisture, though, and I was thinking at the time that wax and/or SnoSeal might do a dual purpose thing and decrease the wear as well as increase the longevity of the leather.

 

I've thought about it though, and really just wish that BD had thought to use a tougher leather on the palm/fingers, that's all.

 

I think I might take the advice, though, and use a tad of Seam Grip on the rappel-areas of the gloves, and Nikwax the palms.

[Rafael_H]

OK, got it, thank you! So do these leak at seams?

 

I have N-waxed gloves for years - works great. I've taped all my tools with a special electrical rubber "splicing" tape from 3M so never friction problems, Ergo can be subtle because you might need no friction at the bend.

 

Seamgrip: I have covered an entire palm w/it, works, but after a year the sealer peels, look like shedding snake skin. So resealing is then problematic because not all peels uniformly.

 

I came to conclusion that for roadside ice-cragging just have a few pairs of thin(er) gloves, for longer routes carry thicker w/proof like BD Ice Glove. And I learned to rappel in some kind of a hand-overhand fashion w/o consistent slide of the rope through palms - gives more control w/wet ropes anyway.

 

In the end yeah, the suckers won't last as long as say your jacket, I figured that first time I climbed ice so bought only screws with knobs... Ice is far more $$$ than rock.

[Chad_A]

So do these leak at seams?

 

No, not that I've noticed in particular. Just was wondering if the waterproofing products might make them a bit more durable, with the side effect of making them more waterproof than they are when they leave the store....but that's not to say that I've had problems with them leaking.

 

Thanks for the thoughts on the Nikwax and Seamgrip.

 

When I go ice climbing, I usually throw in a pair of warm gloves and/or mitts, a medium pair (the Punishers), and a light pair of Atlas grippy gloves if it turns out to be warm enough to use them (they work particularly well with the Ergos, IMHO).

[Kevin_Matlock]

How about that rubberized paint crap that you can dip tool handles into? Not ice tools, but pliers, screw drivers, etc.

I know nothing about this stuff, but it's suppose to remain pliable and I'm wondering if you coated it with a thin coat......????

[Rafael_H]

VW, thank you! I saw OR gloves, quite on par with BD Mixed Glove plus they said it was w/proof. Now will have to go see Punisher m-self, sounds good - never really like OR gear.

 

Tool dip: I used it for tools - will not stand to ice tool use and will peel off, it's not like the factory molded grips. I think factory uses some heat based process, not dry.

[Chad_A]

Hey, Raphael, no prob! I just picked up a set of the OR Contact gloves, cheap on sale, and we'll see how those compare