rob Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 I might be heading to vantage this weekend or next with an inexperienced friend, and I'm looking for some easy (~5.6) trad routes with good protection. A friend suggested Green Wall. Any other good spots? Guide book recommendations? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Seven Virgins and a Mule is 5.7 with good gear. And just try falling out of the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Don't go to Green Wall. There is a great deal of loose rock on all those routes. You can't just go by ratings in a book. They are a lot more serious than the ratings would suggest. Even the best of those, which sees the most ascents, Hand Jive, 5.8, has a lot of loose rock (even by Vantage standards). As if the loose rock were not enough there is lots of that ubiquitous yellow-green lichen carpeting all smearable surfaces. Also, none of the routes have permanent anchors and frequently there isn't even a decent crack on the mesa top with which to build an anchor. Try these routes: Chapstick, 5.6, Near Gully #2 at the Tilted Pillars of Sunshine Crack in the Back, 5.6, Kotick Memorial Wall Big Black Rooster, 5.5, Hen House Wall Edge of Mistakes, 5.6, ZigZag Wall Seven Virgins and a Mule, 5.7, Sunshine Shady Chimney, 5.7 (Offwidth to Chimney), Sunshine Strokin' the Chicken, 5.6, Sunshine Don't do Strokin' the Chicken until you have done all the others first, because it is scarier than the rest of them, and a little harder, despite the rating. If you do SVAAM, Shady, or Strokin' be prepared to build your own anchor. The others have chain anchors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Green Wall is a horrible suggestion. The routes are dirty, mossy, loose, and have bad topouts. Seven Virgins is good. There is also a 5.6 chimney on Kotick Memorial Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 more like "Don't go to Vantage - everything is loose" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 cool, thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 more like "Don't go to Vantage - everything is loose" Loose is all relative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 I have some loose relatives, now that you mention it... Vantage is loose if you're used to granite, but on the well-traveled routes, it's generally fine. Wear a helmet, don't be dumb, watch out for the other climbers (or folks hiking along the gravel-strewn rimrock above) and you'll improve your chances tremendously... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 9, 2007 Author Share Posted March 9, 2007 What's up with the guidebook? Are they ever gonna print one again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 It changes so fast they can't keep up. You can drill faster than they can type. A helmet is a great idea over there. Also set up your belays so that the belayer can dodge meteorites. This has been advantageous a couple of times. Thanks for the tips CBS. I will have my girls over there this weekend or next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 Take a couple of big pieces on "Stoken", and I agree with CBS that it should not be your first route. 7 Virgins is a fine climb and well protected- just pretend it's 5.6. Green Wall is crap and rarely climbed. I have climbed at Vantage at least 100 days and have never experienced a broken hold. Okay, I have, but I haven't been hurt and as long as you belay off to the side from the climb and pay attention or avoid the lower cliff walls when a lot of people are climbing/walking above you'll be fine. I still get a kick out of all the people who say Vantage is loose and then go alpine with all of its typical looseness and etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 I have never drank that much milk To have that happen, I mean... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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