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Yates Adjustable Daisy Chain


AJ

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I was curious if anyone has tried the Yates (or anyone else's) adjustable Daisy Chain for aid climbing. Basically it is what I would describe as a motorcycle tie-down with a nylon loop at one end and a SMC descending ring at the other. It would seem to be easier than getting a fifi hook into a traditional webbing daisy chain, but...Anyway, this seems to be aid specific and wondered if it was worth the $.

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The Yates adjustable Daisy is great. You can move faster and with more confidence while moving up into the second step. Closer than that to the piece and the buckle setup becomes too long to be useful. Obviously this is were short loops come in handy. But the adjusting is really nice when you on overhanging terrain where holding on to fifi can be pretty strenuous.

I would recomend using one normal daisy and one adjustable because if the adjustable craps out (as they do after a few walls aparently), then you can still aid with one daisy. They are totally aid specific, but I'd say worth the $17.

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Get two normal daisys and use a Kong adjustable fifi instead of the fifi-on-a-loop most people use. It speeds things up AMAZINGLY. I will never use a standard fifi again. Plus you can keep your regular daisys set up and use them as back ups to your adjusted fifi.

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the kong adjustable fifi is the only reason i ever aid climb. I hate aid. unless it is on a free route that i can't do then its aid all the way grin.gif.

the adjustable fifi is a small aluminum fifi hook that you run 6mm through, about 5ft worth. you just pull up and down on the cord. this tool helps you get into that top step. very nice. very cheap. faster than that yates dealy. plus in the epic that cord is excellent anchor material.

i imagine that promtnsprts has it? right? if not marmut in the megaopolis east of the lake will have it.

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Thank you!

Is it this one -

a803.jpg

How do you use it? I can visualize shortening the "loop" using it similar to the Gi-Gi with the cord instead of a 'biner. But I can't see how to extend it so far. Do you extend it by pulling on the hook or both hands are needed?

Well, gotta go, will be back on Monday.

[This message has been edited by rafael (edited 02-23-2001).]

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I might have to give the Kong fifi another try - I used one once a couple years ago, but found that the cord kept getting twisted when I would take it in or let it out. It never seemed to lengthen easily. Maybe I had it rigged in a sub-optimal way.

I'm not a big fan of aiding either - seems like a lot of work to move so slow, but my brother seems to like it and he is bugging me to do a bigger trip with him. Hence, my research into the most painless and quick ways to aid.

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I'm not too sure about those adjustable fifis. I've used mine a few times and I always found it hard to lengthen once it's all choked up. Also, the loop isn't super positive like a regular fifi and I'm a little wary about reefing on it on steep ground. If it did pop, you would most likely fall the length of your daisy and static load the piece (and your back).

I think if you're going to use a fifi, use the regular one and have pre-tied loops for them setup for 2nd and top steps. If you want a easy and comfortable way to walk up the steps, by all means go with the yates. You don't need to clip/unclip anything and the buckle system extends easily.

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The last time I did aid was on Liberty Crack in 1986 and I didn't know about any of this stuff. Hell, I used a 16 oz. stanley hammer! I don't aspire to aid but I always liked it enough I'd like to try the Thin Red Line. So anyone wanting to try out this "new" stuff with me? I'm trying to break out of my old fashioned ways!

How many maniacs (person from Maine..moi) does it take to change a light bulb?

Three. One to change the bulb, two to sit on the porch and talk about how good the old one was!

Is climbing with Cobras considered aide? Cheating? DPP

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I highly recommend the adjustable daisy. They make life so much easier on a wall that it is scary. They truly come into there own on steep terrain, where fumbling with a standard daisy chain becomes very tiresome after awhile. They do wear out after about two - three walls, or say about 70 - 90 pitches but they still have a use. Put those suckers on the haul bag as the clip in point and presto!, you can haul that blasted pig all the way to the anchor and hang that sucker just about at any heigth you want it. Using your old ones like this will keep them in use for a long time.

In terms of the adjustable fifi, its all a matter of getting used to the system that you find most useful. I don't like them probably because I never used them. But I used to run 2 fifis on slings. One was just long enough to sit in my third steps and the other was for my second steps. When the going gets steep its inpractical to top step unless you absolutely have to.

Happy Nailing

Big Stones

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The deal on using the adjustable fifi is that the manufacturer recommends using 7mm cord but you have to use 6mm to make them work properly. With 6mm you can adjust the fifi one-handed. With 7mm it's hard to do two-handed!!

I do wish the hook was bigger radius but I've never had it pop and it's easy to remove when you have to lengthen it to stand up on that top-step on vert terrain. And it kicks ass on overhangs where you never top-step. It's of debatable worth for slab aid.

A partner of mine did have his cord blow out but he was using one that was already frayed. It's important to replace the cord at the first sign of wear as the locking off is rope-on-rope like in a GiGi or Garta Hart knot, except just in the hook cord and not in your rope grin.gif

It's also a great tool for cleaning traverses with - you can adjustable in to the next piece, take your weight on that and then move your jugs around and grab the last piece in comfort.

Oh - the other good thing about them is when you are seconding hard free routes and your partner is out of sight you can hook in to a piece, adjust and dog without your weight coming on to the rope. "Yeah I cruised that Joe... how come you were struggling so much?" wink.gif

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 02-27-2001).]

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