jmace Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Twins rock and are quite valuable around these parts where approaches can be long and you do not always need to carry such a fat rope like a double. Doubles cannot be used the same way as twins but you can use a single twin doubled up so one guy can carry a small thin rope while one can carry a small rack. Pretty awesome setup and my legs and back thank me every time I stuff just one small 7.5 twin in my pack!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 I had one friend killed when his single rope cut over an edge. Is there a link to this story or can you share it? I've only seen one rope come apart. Dude lived. .... Barely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Doubles cannot be used the same way as twins What do you mean? On straight-up pitchs with no traversing, I often see people clip both doubles into one piece, just like twins. Is this wrong? Should each strand of the double be in its own biner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Doubles cannot be used the same way as twins What do you mean? On straight-up pitchs with no traversing, I often see people clip both doubles into one piece, just like twins. Is this wrong? Should each strand of the double be in its own biner? If you clip both strands, you double the impact force on the piece. Most of the time, this will not matter, as most placements are plenty strong- bolts for instance. It will decrease the distance you fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 If you clip both strands, you double the impact force on the piece. Most of the time, this will not matter, as most placements are plenty strong- bolts for instance. It will decrease the distance you fall. But, wouldn't that be true for twins, also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Also, the problem with clipping doubles as twins is that the ropes stretch at slightly different rates and cause friction on the sheaths :tdown: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Also, the problem with clipping doubles as twins is that the ropes stretch at slightly different rates and cause friction on the sheaths :tdown: Hmm...I'm confused. Wouldn't twins have this same problem? Or not so much because they are smaller diameter? Am I being stupid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 No, you're not being stupid. The smaller diameter fits into the biner better than a bigger half rope and there's less surface area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 No it can be confusing...yes twins have the same problem which is why I said I didnt like ice climbing on them. However because twins are not rated for a single fall they stretch more and therefore put less force on the pro than two doubles clipped to the same piece. You can clip two doubles to the same piece of pro by using two biners in fact if you use one long sling and one short you can clip both doubles to one peice and still not have to worry about rope drag higher up. Its nice to have a few choices and if you have a regular climbing partner you can buy one twin and one double and he/she can do the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Cool, I get it. Thanks, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 No, you're not being stupid. The smaller diameter fits into the biner better than a bigger half rope and there's less surface area. That and the fact that twins are each clipped together to each piece means that the amount of rope out is identical, so that they stretch and move identically with no friction between strands. Contrast this with halfs (halves?) where one strand might go over a rock and the other not, or one that may take a longer path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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