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Spungdeeper

Beacon Rock

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Most of the climbing on Beacon is closed for the season, until mid-July.

The (now-out-of-print) Portland Rock Climbs book by Tim Olson, and the Rock Climbing Washington book by Jeff Smoot both include routes at Beacon.

Or, alternatively, some of the posters here on cc.com are very familiar with Beacon and probably know it inside & out, better than any guidebook.

check this thread to identify the players: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/479621/page/4#Post479621

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go to beacon and hang out at the base and eventually a relic named jim will appear. jim will show around beacon and tune you into the suchlike. no better aualified person exist as far as i know.

 

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any suggestions for moderate routes?

 

SE Corner (5 or so pitches, 5.7)

Young Warriors (6 or so pitches, 5.10a)

Free For all (one pitch, leads to harder pitches above, 5.8 or .10a)

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where can I get info for climbing routes and suchlike?

 

you cant....it does not actually exist……..

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When did Beacon close for the season?

 

Feb 1st.

 

Just the climbing part closed. The trail to the top is still open.

 

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:lmao:

______________________________________

 

BTW, the first Meyers topo (the loose leaf one), listed the first pitch of Reg NW face of 1/2 done as 5.9. It mades you feel weak in it's difficulty.

 

Later topos listed that pitch as 5.11. Proving that "your results may vary" is so apropo.

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That's just kb's opinion. I don't think everyone is calling that thing 10.

 

Thats correct. That is my opinion....just like all grades on the planet. I would say that after climbing it for over ten years and seeing others on it....about 1 out of 20 call it 5.9.

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Lots of routes and pitches out there share the characteristic where if you have every divot and rest wired they're basically a 5.7/.8 with one or two 5.9 moves and if you don't they're going to feel like hard 5.10 most of the way.

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any suggestions for moderate routes?

 

Cruisin 5.7

Jill's Thrill 5.9

 

Jill's thrill is 10.a

 

I dunno.... that 'Jill's Thrill' is a total sandbag! I think they now call it 'Jen's Thrill'. ;)

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:lmao:

______________________________________

 

BTW, the first Meyers topo (the loose leaf one), listed the first pitch of Reg NW face of 1/2 done as 5.9. It mades you feel weak in it's difficulty.

 

Later topos listed that pitch as 5.11. Proving that "your results may vary" is so apropo.

 

Thats pretty funny.

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Thats pretty funny.

 

Oh I agree, in the cozy confines of my room here it's hilarious, but at the time, all those strange thoughts....it's like "Christ this seems hard".....5.9, am I off route?.....Are we up for this route.... damn I'm a wussy....

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I had a similar experience on what I thought was a 5.9 and turned out to be 10c, which at the time I had never even tried. We pulled it off, but we had similar thoughts and came away with the feeling that we needed more training.

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young warriors isn't 10a - 1 pitch has a short .9 crux - the rest is cruiser .8

 

supremely fun route - really best done w/ a guide the first time unless you like adventure (a fine reason for doing it w/o beta too)

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young warriors isn't 10a - 1 pitch has a short .9 crux - the rest is cruiser .8

 

supremely fun route - really best done w/ a guide the first time unless you like adventure (a fine reason for doing it w/o beta too)

 

I guess that all opinion. I think YW is

P 1 5.8

p 2 5.9

p 3 5.8/5.9

p 4 10.a over the bolt or 5.8 if you step left and go around bolt slab.

p 5 5.7

 

 

 

 

 

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I found the 2nd pitch to be the hardest on YW until I found a "secret move". Perhaps it felt harder because the protection is not as good as the rest of the route (but it is there). Seems to be a recurring theme at Beacon. P4 is one of the finest out there.

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I found the 2nd pitch to be the hardest on YW until I found a "secret move". Perhaps it felt harder because the protection is not as good as the rest of the route (but it is there). Seems to be a recurring theme at Beacon. P4 is one of the finest out there.

 

I agree

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