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sean_beanntan

Ice in CANADA

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Hi does anyone have any recent reports on the ice conditions in Canada eps in the Ghost or Field ro Canmore or the parkway. Sure would appreciate it.

 

Any good current sites, even Will Gadd's site is a little old for TR's

 

Thanks

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Have heard some of the sunnier climbs got a bit affected during the past few weeks due to lack of precip, but things are holding up fine. However there's a major avy cycle in process at the moment and forecast for the weekend sounds like it'd be a good idea to stay away from the big drains for awhile. "Considerable" through the weekend. Parks says they are bombing Mt. Wilson, and the Bourgeaus today.

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I'm in Lake Louise right now. It dumped a whole bunch yesterday and last night. The skiing was sweet today, but I concur about the avy conditions. Wouldn't want to be on anything exposed right now. Haffner is in nicely.

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I recommend you get skunked on bourgeau left for the 3rd time in a row. Be sure to do the slog up there for good measure.

 

Just kidding, have a great time. I'm jealous. Watch that surface hoar layer w/all the new snow, yikes.

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I just got back from there. It dumped snow, then warmed up. Anything west of Banff is probably not a good place to be. Kananaskis is good. There's a ton of snow in the Ghost Valley, but it's old. Our 4x4 truck caouldn't handle the snowdrifts and we had to turn around. Rte 11 is surprisingly clear of snow.

Edited by ybatom

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Was up there in January. Ended up with high avalance conditions everywhere.

 

Cragged at Haffner one day, did Louise Falls the next, and then headed out to the Weeping Wall. No, nothing got lopped off the tick list that time, but beats getting buried by a wall of white.

 

Might want to check out Johnston Canyon? Never been there, but I'm told it's an alternative to Haffner if you've already been there.

 

Have fun up there!

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Weekendclimberz, Trogdor, Catbirdseat, and I are driving back from Canmore right now. TR to come tomorrow... But, don't go to Canada to ice climb... The ice was too fat and plastic to have any fun. Many routes were climbed but no one had any fun. The beer was warm, the beds were too comfortable and we got a shower every night which sucked.

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[sarcasm]

Don't go to Canmore, it's not worth it right now. Especially if you get free digs and rides up and down the approach roads from the Park employee's :tdown: :tdown:

[/sarcasm]

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Thanks for all the beta, here is how the trip went. I can post more details later or just ask more questions

Feb 16th Haffner Creek, good Ice conditions, lots of climbers mixing it up

Feb 17th Moonlight, Evan Thomas Ck on h/w 40, good shape, picked

Feb 18th Balfour Wall, just like Haffner, good group site

Feb 19th Louise Falls, Fat but no plastic

Feb 20th Snowline, Evan Thomas Ck on h/w 40, good shape, picked

Feb 21th Candlestick Maker in the Ghost, great shape

Feb 22th The Sorcerer, in the Ghost, great shape

Feb 23th Wicked Wanda, in the Ghost WI5 shape out of cave.

It snowed a lot up there but access to the ghost was good, climbing temps around 10F....no sun on the routes. We parked the camper at the base of the hill and drove a jeep to the climbs. Access times to climbs in the ghost match the guide book ie Sorcerer about 2 hours.

 

I notice no one mentions the sweet hottubing at the White Swan hot springs. Nothing better than a soak after 8 days on the ice.

Dont pass this place up, about 10 miles south of Canal Flats

 

Hope this helps,

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Holy hell that sounds like a brilliant trip. Thanks for the hot springs tip. I never seem to remember to do it when up there but now I've written it down in my guide book.

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I've written it down in my guide book.

 

It's already in there with the description to "the less wardens the better." When I went it was full of drunk high school kids and we had to sit in the coldest pool. perhaps it's better on a weeknight. :mistat:

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Sounds like a great time. I'm planning to head up in a couple of weeks. Any recommendations on hostels in Banff ?

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There is a good hostel in Banff called Banff International Hostel or more fancy but never been there called The HI Banff Alpine Centre Hostel. The Alpine Hut in Canmore is also a good bet. It depends on how many climbers you have. We pack about 4 into the Drake Inn in Canmore and its a cheap sweet setup close to food and beer.

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The hostel in Banff suxxor. You pay 28+$ for the common room, per person (Louise is even more expensive), when you could pay around 55$ a night for a motel in Canmore...

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Thanks again all. Another dumb question - I have JoJo's ice guide, and it mentions another guide to mixed climbing by Sean Isaacs, such as for the Haffner Creek area. Is that one reasonably up-to-date ? Is there anything in the M5-6 range to TR at Haffner ?

 

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I beleive Isaac's book is fairly current, but there has still been some development since then. Unless you want to climb some hard mixed stuff, I wouldnt bother buying the mixed guide. Just go to Haffner and ask around. There are a small handful of TRable lines in the 5-6 range.

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