layton Posted November 28, 2002 Share Posted November 28, 2002 The board won't let me reply to this tread? Some weird error occurs, so I'm staring a new thread. Colin a 4wd only saves you at most an extra hour of walking, probably more like a 1/2 hour. Easily soloable, the rock move at the base was easier than I though after downclimbing it. Don, we almost did that traverse just to avoid downclimbing the entire couloir (which btw, is very tedious)! The view from the top is totally worth a traverse of those peaks. You'd get awesome views all day long! I think I spotted your route on Payne. It looks more like a water ice climb right now (very thin). This area could produce some fat climbs if this cold weather holds. I'll probably come back this winter or spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 "Zero Peak" is also known as Rideouts Pup (how original) and was probably climbed by the first party up the west ridge of Rideout... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 followed your footsteps saturday, michael (w graham rowbotham) - actually didn't see any trace of your passage 'cept on the road, but metaphysically speaking... thanks for posting the TR, and stimulating the interest! great day, superb views, awesome cirque, entertaining climbing. drove just over 10km from the bridge at back of sunshine valley to about 1km beyond where the road crosses the upper creek (dry ford, this time of year). only about 1km walking to end of road, then frozen meadows to base of snow. 'twas kinda warm, so the couloir was a bit spooky - lots of running water - but we reckoned most of whatever was going to fall already had done so cuz of the inversion for several days, and we had only one rock and only one little fusilade of ice all day. 3hrs car to notch: mainly 45d snow (mostly soft; easy kicking) with short steeper sections (to 60d) plus 2 very short rock steps and 3 short WI sections. feels very exposed; neat terrain. continued to 7700' summit to east - thought it might be unclimbed, but there was a little cairn with a film tin inside: mark allaback and john roper, aug 16, 1988 - anybody know them? they called this "sumallo peak". re: dru's comment about this summit maybe being climbed by 1st party to do W side of rideout, i'm unaware of such an ascent. beckey has a route called SW, but that's via the SW side of silvertip, NOT SW side of rideout, if u check early guides/references. downclimbed gully, incl ice steps, 2 hrs notch to car. michael, was that your unthreaded black pound-in rappel anchor? do u want it back? or shall i give it to a museum? hint: learn to do abalakovs! that thing is scary! cheers, don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Don: I don't know him, but John Roper has a stack of FA's in the cascades, mostly moderate stuff, often somewhat remote. He's been a busy lad over the years. I don't think he's Canadian, if thats what you were wondering. Oh, and thanks to the both of you for the TR's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 tks. i'll track him down and find out what route they took to climb the peak. the route descriptions for silvertip, rideout, payne, and cocmpanions have gotten terribly confused over the years, as u realize if u follow culbert'64, culbert'74, fairley'86, beckey'81, beckey'95, and the original references. this is not a very popular summer mountaineering area, but it's one of the best for winter/spring, so i intend to straighten out the "who did what, when, and from where" thing. i'll post the results when they're available. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted December 2, 2002 Author Share Posted December 2, 2002 Yup. that was Richard's (fixedpin) pound-in! We were gonna rap off a bollard, but it was pulling so we rapped off that crappy screw. The ice wasn't thick enough for a v-thread and richard had no sentimental ties to that piece of junk. Glad you had fun and didn't step in my green-apple splatter 1/2 way up the gully. I probably would'a downclimbed the whole thing if I did it again. Your description (and times) sounds the same as ours, 'cept for the hours spend untangling our ropes after the raps. Glad you had fun. I'll post a rockies report when I get a chance. What happened to my original TR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Don, let me know if you want to email John Roper. I know him pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 tks guys, esp. stephan. i tracked him down and had a chat. he and mark climbed outa the sumallo valley to the ridge between silvertip and rideout, went east to climb W ridge silvertip, came back and climbed E ridge of rideout, dropped down its W face and climbed sumallo, then traversed the S side of rideout back to their ascent route east of rideout and dropped back to their camp. STOUT day. next question: i wonder if max climbed sumallo when he did the FA of zero gully? another call required... more later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 I know Guy Edwards traversed over Sumallo at some point in the 90's. Twas he who named it Rideouts Pup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 5, 2002 Share Posted December 5, 2002 max de jong did the FA of zero gully march 1, 1986; 26hrs return from vancouver, downclimbing gully on descent. he recalls scrambling up left from the top of the gully, but he was tired and time/darkness was pressing; he has no memory of gaining a summit. his guess: he did NOT climb sumallo (altho maybe he got to the foresummit). so far, FRA 1988 to roper and allabach. p.s. somebody needs to check out max's N face of N peak on payne. red fred has it as "obvious", which it ain't, from the valley. quite the opposite, it's hidden from below, and is only obvious once u get to it. keep going up and right till the gully appears on the left. awesome looking face, btw, which max tried once - scared him badly, and he came down. no surpirse; bad rock in this valley... cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 I am still not convinced Beckey has W side of Rideout in by mistake. His directions (bear right around cliffs etc) are different than his directions for S side of Silvertip, which involves traversing high above a gorge ( I can verify that the latter directions are accurate having descended S face of silvertip once). Don I sent you an email about this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted December 10, 2002 Share Posted December 10, 2002 Climbed this route on Sunday. Conditions are still good but I am sure that is now changing with snowfall. Thanks for the steps Don and company. I didnt even know these mountains existed until a few days ago. Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 10, 2002 Share Posted December 10, 2002 These mountains do not exist, you must have been climbing a hallucination, and all the unclimbed lines you saw were mirages you'd do well to avoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted December 11, 2002 Author Share Posted December 11, 2002 Your welcome Coley. Way to get after it. Did you see my poop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 14, 2002 Share Posted December 14, 2002 not previously reported, guy edwards and a friend climbed the gully between sumallo and rideout in winter '93 or '94, angling right in its upper half to the summit of sumallo. not too hard, apparently. this gully is clearly visible on pg 246 of red fred II dropping left from the notch at the summit of sumallo (the peak between rideout and payne). the route lies in the right branch below the snowband. enjoy, cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted December 14, 2002 Author Share Posted December 14, 2002 Here's a photo of Zero Gulley as of four weeks ago when Richard and I did it. zero gulley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted December 16, 2002 Share Posted December 16, 2002 Sometimes I wish I was a canadian... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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