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[TR] Three Fingers - Northeast Face (FA); FWA North Peak 2/3/2007


John Frieh

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Thanks for the comments guys! A big thank you to Mr. Scurlock for finding yet another jewel of the cascades and to Mr. Berdinka for all the approach info and stoke!

 

the descent goes over a shoulder under the north summit and descends the North face. Fairly straitforward to follow, but it could be easy to mess up. We used the left hand cliff band a a guide. The north face is directly below the North Peak in this photo:

 

descent.jpg

 

and don't forget those ear plugs when climbing with John! :sleep::laf:

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John/Dave,

Super sweet jorb. Wish I could have been there. Dave instead of ear plugs just drive seperate cars, it worked for me on the way to the sawtooths. Anyways.... you guys made a damn fine contribution to ice climbing community in the northwest. Cheers and I drink one to you tonight. :brew:

Edited by powderhound
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A ghost from the "Anyone gonna get after this?" threads of yore re-emerges. I first spotted that line 3-4 years ago from the top of Exfoliation Dome, and immediately went home and looked through the Beckey guide to see if there'd been an ascent. I suspect that I was about the 400th person to do so.

 

The line looked amazing, but after getting a better look at the snowfield looming above it, I figured that the odds that I'd find the route and myself in the right condition to climb the thing were next to none, and the move to the Least Coast put the matter to rest.

 

That's an impressive effort on a beautiful line. Thanks for posting the photos for everyone else's vicarious gratification. Gets my vote for this year's Golden Snaffle award.

 

On a related note? How did you guys feel about the objective hazards on the route? Seems like even folks that are solid at the grade would have to spend a long time underneath a big snowfield that looks like it'd catch some early morning sun.

 

Old Photo:

 

1282threefingersline.jpg

 

Incidently, it's always looked as though continuing up the couloir that branches up to the right would be a worthy outing in its own right, if not quite as spectacular as the plum that these gents picked.

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On a related note? How did you guys feel about the objective hazards on the route? Seems like even folks that are solid at the grade would have to spend a long time underneath a big snowfield that looks like it'd catch some early morning sun.

 

The slope above the climb is actually pretty mellow in angle, and varies between 10-20 degrees. Given the conditions, I wasn't worried about it at all. Natually you would not want to be on the climb/descent (or any climb!) if there was the possibility of spontaneous avalanches...

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