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Please help me find my dream place....


Stefan

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Please help me with this dream.

 

1) I am trying to find a place in British Columbia.

2) I am trying to find a place where I can make a base camp for about a week.

3) A base camp situated in a valley or cirque.

4) From the base camp I would like to climb several peaks around me—each of the peaks would be one day ascents

5) A base camp that would be isolated and “not popular”

6) Base camp would be accessed by plane or helicopter.

7) Routes of peaks would be physically difficult but not technically difficult. (I am more interested in being in a great place, rather than doing great things.)

8) Climbing would be preferably be on snow. Steep snow is okay and great!

9) A place where the mosquitos are absent

 

I do not want to move my base camp because I would be bringing in good food and cooking steaks on a hibachi. And moving good food/hibachi would be a problem because I am not interested in slogging sleds around.

 

Does such a place exist? If so, recommendations?

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stefan,

tchaikazan valley. superb camping in open meadow (stay above the moraine to get most breeze to shoo the bugs off). tons to do, mostly moderate (but poor) rock on south sides, entertaining steep snow/ice on north sides. 5 glacial valleys radiate from head of main valley. half a dozen 10,000-footers, innumerable 9,000-ers. all day trips (some would be very long) or easy overnighters.

VERY expensive helicopter trip, or drive in from williams lake, then walk about 25km - horse trail, virtually no elevation gain. short bush section and one tough creek crossing at end.

see bivouac.com for info; also cdn alpine journal 2001.

cheers, don

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more re: tchaikazan. if u want to get real good idea of what the place is like, western canada wilderness committee sells a superb 36"x16" panoramic poster of the valley for the ridiculously low price of CDN$5. how do they expect to fight the timber companies when they won't even charge us outdoors-folk a reasonable price for great stuff!?!?

see: the store at http://www.wildernesscommittee.org/ or phone 1-800-661-9453.

cheers, don

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quote:

Originally posted by Stefan:

Please help me with this dream.

 

1) I am trying to find a place in British Columbia.

2) I am trying to find a place where I can make a base camp for about a week.

3) A base camp situated in a valley or cirque.

4) From the base camp I would like to climb several peaks around me—each of the peaks would be one day ascents

5) A base camp that would be isolated and “not popular”

6) Base camp would be accessed by plane or helicopter.

7) Routes of peaks would be physically difficult but not technically difficult. (I am more interested in being in a great place, rather than doing great things.)

8) Climbing would be preferably be on snow. Steep snow is okay and great!

9) A place where the mosquitos are absent

 

I do not want to move my base camp because I would be bringing in good food and cooking steaks on a hibachi. And moving good food/hibachi would be a problem because I am not interested in slogging sleds around.

 

Does such a place exist? If so, recommendations?

I recommend looking at some maps to find your shangri-La. Questions 1-9 can be answered this way.

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I will be looking at maps. I just wanted the expert opinion from people who have been to these areas. I liked the pictures of the Tchaikazan Valley and the Niut Range. I could not find pictures for the Battle Range or Melville Group.

 

Drew, I saw a picture that said "Bifrost Pass" area going from Geddes to Zeus. That area looks intriguing. Is access via road or helicopter to that particularly large area?

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here's one photo but it doesn't show much. This was on the approach to where I camped above Houston Creek, above the waterfall. The peak on the right is Proteus. Most routes in the area are 5.7 or so, but some are walk-ups. Many require glacier crossings. We found the Putnam times to be a little on the short side.

 

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quote:

Originally posted by iain:

here's one photo but it doesn't show much. This was on the approach to where I camped above Houston Creek, above the waterfall. The peak on the right is Proteus. Most routes in the area are 5.7 or so, but some are walk-ups. Many require glacier crossings. We found the Putnam times to be a little on the short side.

 

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For scale, the central buttress on Proteus facing the camera is an 18 pitch route IIRC.

 

[ 11-20-2002, 09:35 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

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Thanks Dru. If I go back I would like to climb the ridge of Moby Dick, which is supposedly a grade IV, but almost all 4th class with exposure to the many-thousand foot Ohno wall on the other side (I believe there were some recent first ascents on that wall last year). We faced some pretty miserable weather most of the time and were tent-bound.

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