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[TR] Kent NF - unnamed mixed route 2/3/2007


dbconlin

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Trip: Kent NF - unnamed mixed route

 

Date: 2/3/2007

 

Trip Report:

On Saturday, scottgg and I climbed the north face of Mt. Kent via a mixed line to the right of the major ice pillar seen in the center of this photo and what from this angle appears to be about half way up the face:

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Here is a closer up shot of the route, the sweet-looking pillar to the left, and our line on the right:

 

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We left the TH at 0415, arriving at the base of the face at 0630. We started off with some simul-climbing for a couple hundred meters over some grade 2+ ice and steep snow slopes into the bowl beneath the pillar. We had intended to climb the pillar itself but when we got there it looked too big, steep, and intimidating for our mediocre waterfall ice skills (probably grade 5). I consider myself a better alpine mixed climber than waterfall ice climber and felt more confident leading up the mixed line instead. It turned out to be more difficult than it looked, but not too bad. Protection was scarce (the rock was pretty poor, we had a minimal rock rack as we had intended to be on ice, ice wasn't thick or good enough for even stubby screws, and the shrubs were further between and more fragile than it had appeared from below) but I found a decent belay under a roof after about 40 meters. Scott took the next lead, up some more sketch ice, to some better rock with a good tree anchor, and then traversing left on exposed mixed climbing back into the drainage above the ice pillar. Both of these pitches I would rate at about WI3+ M4/5.8. We belayed one more pitch on moderate grade 3 ice steps above the pillar and then simul-climbed the rest of the way to the summit, arriving at about 1330 in a light drizzle.

 

Looking up the mixed line (be assured it is steeper than this photo depicts / good ole foreshortening at work):

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Scott approaching the first belay:

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Scott starting out the second pitch, you can see the ice pillar in the background:

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Some mixed moves on the second pitch:

379040333_4544f8f2e1.jpg

 

Scott removing the last screw on the last belayed pitch, just above the last technical difficulty, a short WI3 ice step:

379040628_2c138690ac.jpg

 

Scott approaching the last belay, from whence onward we simulclimbed:

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Summit shots (me=short, scott=tall):

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Overall a fun alpine route with a little bit of everything, some water ice, some mixed climbing, minor routefinding challenges, and some vertical bushwacking in spots. This was Scott's last climb before becoming a father (baby due next week). Congrats Scott!

 

Gear Notes:

lots of long slings for the trees would be nice!

 

Approach Notes:

Quick with solid snow conditions, just over 2 hours to the base of the face.

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Ok... well, since it seems that more people are starting to venture out to Mt. Kent this year... I will share some pics from the trip Dave (dbconlin) and I took on January 13th. We had cold, clear weather for an attempt on the central ice line in the pics. The ice was brittle and very aerated (tough to find good screws) but made for fun climbing. Having a pin "pop" from our belay anchor made for a few tense moments. We decided that our luck had run out for the day and lowered off to live to climb another day.

 

See link for pics:

http://picasaweb.google.com/brianmass

 

 

 

 

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There were like 6 parties up there on saturday. Eric and I tried the line in Brian's pics, but the ice kinda sucked, and it was starting to rain (late start), so we bailed. Another party was headed up towards the pillar Dave and Scott bypassed as we were leaving. Not sure if they bailed too. Doubt there have ever been nearly that many people up there at one time. Looks like it could make for a a pretty cool winter crag during colder seasons. FYI, the face is littered in Avy debris, so stay away after fresh snow.

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Yeah, really fun climb! However, I was not able to fully enjoy it because I felt bad about leaving the pregnant hottie at home :)

Upon reaching the west ridge, we unroped and I could feel the inexorable pull of responsibility and guilt turning us downhill. But despite Climbing(magazine)'s assertion that alpine climbing is about routes not summits, we followed our hearts and tagged the top.

After stoping to pick up roses, I raced home and was pleasantly suprised to find the bun still in the oven! While pulling off my capalline, I was reminded why I love climbing in the cascades when all sorts of pine needles, bark, and branches fell to the ground...

 

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On 2/2 (Friday) Gary and I climbed the route shown as Kloke for the lower part then onto the Burdick/Fortier to where it gains the ridge. The ice was in great shape and the air still cool enough all day for good conditions. Getting the ice, air temp and low avalanche conditons all right at the same time on this one is rare. A fun route. We descended the gully on the far left. A lot of face in down climbing on points but not too bad.

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