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[TR] Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth - Goat Dome 2/3/2007


catbirdseat

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Trip: Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth - Goat Dome

 

Date: 2/3/2007

 

Trip Report:

Roboboy received an email from Freeman with photos of an ice route he had done the previous week. Freeman said that he had never seen this route come in before. It was six pitches and WI3, on the left side of Goat Dome. When Rob forwarded the pictures I had to give it a go, as it seemed within my modest abilities.

 

goat_dome.jpg

 

The route is accessed by parking at the Snow Lake Parking Lot and hiking the trail a very short distance to the aquaduct and following that to the east, maybe a quarter of a mile until you can look up and see the route.

 

MCash led the odd pitches, I led the even ones, and Roboboy followed, as it was his first ever experience with water ice. The crux comes on the fourth pitch with a short but narrow WI3+ section. The sixth pitch is probably the most fun with a series of WI2+ bulges.

 

The ice was quite good for the most part and takes full length screws in most places.

 

First Pitch, Martin's Lead

p_1_1.jpg

 

Second Pitch

 

p2.jpg

 

Fourth Pitch

 

p4_1.jpg

p4_2.jpg

p4_3.jpg

Martin at top of Fifth Pitch

 

p6_2.jpg

 

Sixth Pitch

 

p6_3.jpg

 

Our descent was by walking up and to the west, and making one double rope rappel and two single rope rappels down to snow slopes and a direct line back to the starting point. We are pretty sure we could have walked off, had we just gone a bit further west and up.

 

I felt this is a fun route and a good choice for those who are beginning to lead on ice, as I am.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

16 mm ice screws (10), 60 m twin ropes, a set of nuts, should have had a picket for the belay on the 2nd pitch.

 

Approach Notes:

Dead easy approach from Snow Creek TH. At present, snowshoes are not necessary.

Edited by catbirdseat
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Looks like a really good time on some really phat ice!! Nice exposure too.

 

Guess we missed that, it was dark when we went by there towards snowcreek wall and dark on the return.

 

Thanks for pointing out the dinnerplated screw. That's a beginner's mistake, to be sure. As a rock climber, I had my sights on a nut placement in that nice crack a little higher up, so I decided to just put a screamer on it and move up, rather than to mess around trying a new placement.
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Because you spend so much time hunched over, Mark Shipman christened it "Bend Over" or "Bend Over, Baby". Sounds reasonable to me.

 

From the top of the 6th or 7th pitch (there is still some spotty ice above to the left) you can walk up circa 100 meters, then contour over the top of Goat Dome and down to Snow Creek trail. There will be a path.

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I'll ask the probable first ascentist tonight what he thinks. btw - he told me sunday that his ice pitch count is over 70 so far this year after we ran a few laps on Pearly Gates (another recommend WI-fun climb. Heck of it is, he works too.

 

Man that's a pretty good count. I've got 11 days, but only about 30-35 pitches since November. Got a normal 9-5, too :tup: :tup:

 

Here's to all those working and climbing :brew: :brew:

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