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Dru

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Don Serl and Steve Harng and I went back up to Bralorne and climbed the north face of Crazy Mountain. Great couloir route, AD+ or D-, 400m, snow to 65 degrees, ice to 45-50. Harder and funner than "Plutocrat". We called it "Paymaster".

 

Left West Van 6:30 AM. started hiking c. 11:00 AM. Found a funky old miners shack. Saw [sNAFFLEHOUND] Started climbing c. 2:00 PM. Summited c. 4:45 PM. Back to the car 9:00 PM.

 

There was a cairn on top with ascent records dating back to 1954. Saw Steve Smaridge and Trevor Petersons names in there from 1993 as most recent entry. RIP Steve and Shreddie.

 

Visited MEC on Sunday. Parked car near the park on 8th. Car broken into, window smashed, backpack containing camera, film, Goretex jacket prototype, pants, M10 crampons, new Mix Master gloves etc stolen [Mad][Mad][Mad][Mad][Mad]

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Here is a photo from Truax.

 

-

 

Plutus at left, Crazy at right.

 

Plutocrat is the thin diagonal couloir on Plutus.

North glacier descent is left of Plutocrat.

 

Paymaster is the curving couloir line on Crazy. We descended right hand skyline, easy walkoff.

 

[ 10-28-2002, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Visited MEC on Sunday. Parked car near the park on 8th. Car broken into, window smashed, backpack containing camera, film, Goretex jacket prototype, pants, M10 crampons, new Mix Master gloves etc stolen.

Me [Mad][Mad] too. People suck!! Well some of them anyway. What wopuld you say yer balance is these days Dru? You know, booty versus stuff stolen? Not that it makes it any better. [Frown][Frown]

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David Persson and Alexander Fuglesang had all their gear stolen out of their car after doing a new route on Ossa a few months before David died on rainier.

 

David named it 'Odin's Ice' in a punning reference to a nordic legend of Odin sacrificing one of his eyes ('is' in norwegian) in return for the gift of the runes. Their sacrifice was their gear in return for scooping a cool new line.

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They got the pix from topping out on couloir on. The other film is safe in my jacket pocket. But I lost the good sequence of Steven wigging out as he climbs up a sheet of dinner plate ice to the top-out. Also the cool profile shot of Plutus from Crazy. And a few nice sunset pix of the Bendor range and some good scrambling pix and summit shot of the Elastoplast Bandage summit register c. 1954. [Frown]

 

I guess I should have carried the pack around with me even though it was full of smelly gear. [Frown] Hindsight is always 20:20.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

My booty all season long is one ice screw and a couple of slings.

 

I have had 2 backpacks and probably about $1500 worth of gear stolen, in 2 1/2 months.

 

So Im in booty debt big time I guess.

Hopefully it'll all come back to you in triplicate then... [big Grin]

I kinda meant lifetime, not just this year.

 

I still [Mad][Mad]

 

[ 10-28-2002, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

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quote:

Originally posted by snoboy:

quote:

Originally posted by fern:

this is kinda like the Odin's Ice story - don't going skiing liberty ridge any time soon

that dru don't ski

 

What's the Odin's Ice story??
[Confused]
I still have Fern's 'garbage can skis' [big Grin]

 

Looks like you guys get to Ski The Freshiez on Microwave Tower run soon [big Grin]

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I'm going on four seasons now with $99 crapjob ski sale skis. Sure they're thinnner than sticks and they suck in pow, but at that price you can do amazing things with them: I seem to remember that AlpineK refused to do the "crux" of the McBride traverse in fear of wrecking his Tua beauties. C'mon man, it's not a complete trip if you don't ski accross the Diamond Head gravel parking lot to your car [Roll Eyes][Wink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Me first you second
[Razz]

 

Actually both Don, Steve and I thought the vague buttress to the right of Paymaster looked solid and might give some pleasant class 5. But you had already scoped that on the topo right
[Roll Eyes][laf]

Damned straight! I actually thought the Kingdom Lake road was 4wd and way old. That and the little marshy symbols in Crazy creek kept me away. Eeeeoooww gross! [Roll Eyes]

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