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corvallisclimb

Oregon Bolt Replacement

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Well its still there. I did not remove the history. Simply added a new one in a better position.

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ah nice - a menu of anchors! kinda like the upper anchors of jensen's ridge!

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If anyone is looking for a good bolt candidate to replace, I always thought the third or fourth bolt on the second pitch of New Generation at Carver, the one right before you traverse to the left, is the worst looking bolt I've ever clipped.

 

 

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Menagerie

 

Rooster Rock

2 Anchor bolts on the summit.

 

PS and if any one knows who added the nice 1/2" bolts to the summit of rooster rock most likley with a power drill. Let me know so I can cut their nuts off. Tell em they can have their hangers back.

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Menagerie

 

The Bridge

The Newt Route

1 anchor bolt atop P2

1 lead bolt on P3

 

W/ Chris Fralick and Randy Rimby 11/08

 

menagerie_11-08_082_small.jpg

and thats how you drill

 

menagerie_11-08_040_small.jpg

hidden single bolt belay

Edited by corvallisclimb

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The last two bolts on Double Trouble at Smith are pretty sketchy. Might as well be plant hangers, esp the last one which spun 180 deg. I didn't even bother clipping it. The anchors are also a little unnerving, there was definitely a significant amount of creaking going on during the lower.

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Twin Pillar's:

New anchor bolt on top of main pillar, Tyler styled the hand drill in a few minutes flat. You can now safely get back to the tera firma.

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Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness

Main Pillar - Campfire Route?

1 Lead Bolt

1 Anchor Bolt

 

W Bryan Schmitz 4/19/07

 

 

did the main pillar go free?

 

ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!

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Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness

Main Pillar - Campfire Route?

1 Lead Bolt

1 Anchor Bolt

 

W Brian Schmitz 4/19/07

 

 

did the main pillar go free?

 

ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!

 

the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder.

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thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.

 

so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?

 

543101217_9ae9d45848.jpg?v=0

 

edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.

Edited by fgw

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yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove.

 

did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited.

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thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.

 

so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?

 

543101217_9ae9d45848.jpg

 

edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.

 

theres some more text after the .jpg

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Smith Rock

 

Diheadreals - Methuselas Column

5 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

Diheadreals - Rattle Snake Chimney

1 Lead Bolt

 

Diheadreals - Bunny Face

6 Hangers

2 Anchors Bolts, to top out.

 

Diheaderals - Rabbit Stew

2 Anchors Bolts

 

Cocaine Gully - Hippos On Ice

3 Lead Bolts

 

All with Jim Ablao 5/9/09

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Wolf Rock

 

Sport Arch - Right Corner Arete

2 Anchor bolts

6 lead bolts

 

with John Rich 6/16/09

 

acctually i added a bolt and moved the anchor up 10 feet to a nice stance so now its a little bit longer

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