Buckaroo Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Rainier in winter, maybe Denali at some point. Can't find a really puff synthetic jacket. Everyone has down, but bad experiences with that in the past. Who makes a hi loft synth jacket with an insulated hood? Know they've made them in the past because the regular partner has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 http://www.wildthingsgear.com/belay.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I used a Wild Things Belay Parka on Denali. It was warm enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ketch Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 You will probably catch it from someone. But I would start with a carefull reevaluation of Down. My first puffy was an old school nylon shell and required "special" handling and use. That one didn't make me happy. I changed to a Modern unit with an Epic outer and new construction methods, Way better. Synthetics are still not quite up to where Down is. If you are only buying for Rainer and relative warmer conditions synthetic works but down is still lighter. I think there is a race on. The shell fabrics are making down attractive faster than synth is getting warm and light. If you are still pointed that dirrection I have seen some good stuff advertised in Mountain Gear using the new Primaloft. I have no personal experience with it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnManMatt Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Patagucci DAS Parka... http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?assetid=10109 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnManMatt Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 ...Also depends on what kind of climber/climbs you are/will do. More alpine oriented, moving most of the time would point towards synthetic, while more stopping might point more towards down. What i know of synthetic materials is that Primaloft while more like down is not as durable as Polarguard with its continuous strand insulation, and will probably pack out quicker. My2c... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 But I would start with a carefull reevaluation of Down. I changed to a Modern unit with an Epic outer and new construction methods, Way better. Yeah, listen to this guy. I was just out with him a week ago and the difference between his and my down gear was quite remarkable. My old-school GoLite jacket got a little wet when tent condensation dripped on it and de-lofted a couple of sections. Had to warm/dry it in the bag the next night. Thankfully the bag was synthetic because it would have been worthless [his down bag was perfectly fine also b/c it also had a newer outer fabric]. The new highly water resistant/proof outer fabrics make all the difference. When [if?] the majority of Everest & Denali expeditions switch to synthetic, I'll do the same. For now, it will be painful to spend the money on Feathered Friends gear but I think it's worth it. In case we're missing your point, what type of problems were you having with down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 (edited) Patagucci DAS Parka... http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?assetid=10109 Just picked up a DAS Parka, but haven't had a chance to test it out. Not super heavy at ~ 29oz, but doesn't compress down very small. From what I understand, the 3D fill is not as compressible as Primaloft, but I think 3D holds up better over time. This is the coat that both Steve House and Lance Anderson used on Nanga Parbat, so I'm guessing that with adequate layers beneath, it could be Denali worthy, but can't say for sure. It gets great reviews for it's warmth, and is probably warmer than the Wildthings offerings, but can't say for sure. Edited January 30, 2007 by ericb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 ""In case we're missing your point, what type of problems were you having with down?"" Before I had much experience, had a -30 down bag on Shuksan in winter. Got temporarily "lost" in a storm on descent and ended up sleeping down low. Got rained on and the bivy sack seams weren't well sealed, bag got soaked. Had to go back up to get to the car and spent another night or so in a snow cave shivering. That bag had just a plain nylon shell. My issue now is that the puff jacket is part of the sleeping system and it's inside a GoreTex bivy sack. So think moisture from condensation might be an issue, also other stuff is going to be wet cuz digging snow caves at camps. The planned routes aren't really technical so no waiting at belays. Thinking the down might be too warm to wear while climbing except maybe on the summit day. So might just take two synth jackets to layer with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I really like my MHW Voodoo Belay Jacket. It's been pretty comfy down to -10 in a strong wind and still warm and relatively dry in a cold heavy mist. I too use it as a sort of sleep system with a Wild Things half-bag and a Gore-tex bivy sack. I've been pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanner Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 I have been very happy with my Mountain hardwear down jacket, ITs the one with the counduit sl shell and the big puffy hood. But if waterproof and sythetic are what you are after take a look at the Fission SV Jacket by arcteryx. It's GorXCR w/primaloft fill(no personal experiance) The TNF redpoint jacket (prima loft w/hyvent shell) is also very good. I've used it in wet weather and it was a little more water resistant than a soft shell and very warm for its thickness. as a bonus it is very compresable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeroforhire Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Patagonia DAS parka all the way I love mine... this jacket is tough... the 3D insulation can take a lot of stuffing and un-stuffing... more so than primaloft. You do have to be careful with it though... I have heard that if you expose to to very warm temps, it can ruin the loft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
featheredfriends Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 This may sound blasphemous coming from such a source, but the warmest synthetic parka we have seen is the Mammut Stratus Hoody. True, it does have the bulk of one of our massive down expedition parkas when you try to stuff it, but it has more loft than any other synthetic parka we've ever carried in the shop. Right now there are 7 different models on our racks, which is a new record. Have no fear, though, down still reins supreme in our book and we won't be changing our name to Synthetic Friends any time soon. A spendier alternative would be the Arcteryx Fission LT Hoody. This combines the fancy new shell technologies discussed above with Primaloft insulation. The best value out there right now might be the OR parka- Gore shell fabric with Primaloft for a pretty reasonable price. Not the most loft, though, so probably not well suited to conditions colder than the Cascades. Oh my gosh, this has now become the longest post FF has ever made devoted exclusively to synthetic insulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 I ended up with the "Mammut Stratus Hoody" from you guys. Same weight as the down jacket I was looking at, maybe not quite as much fluff and doesn't pack as small. But it's not pleated either which seems to be a place where down can loose warmth. So far so good in the icy icycle, we'll see how it does on Rainier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 This may sound blasphemous coming from such a source, but the warmest synthetic parka we have seen is the Mammut Stratus Hoody. True, it does have the bulk of one of our massive down expedition parkas when you try to stuff it, but it has more loft than any other synthetic parka we've ever carried in the shop. Right now there are 7 different models on our racks, which is a new record. Have no fear, though, down still reins supreme in our book and we won't be changing our name to Synthetic Friends any time soon. A spendier alternative would be the Arcteryx Fission LT Hoody. This combines the fancy new shell technologies discussed above with Primaloft insulation. The best value out there right now might be the OR parka- Gore shell fabric with Primaloft for a pretty reasonable price. Not the most loft, though, so probably not well suited to conditions colder than the Cascades. Oh my gosh, this has now become the longest post FF has ever made devoted exclusively to synthetic insulation. For clarification i.e. "the warmest", you do not carry the Das Parka, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 The Golite Six Month Night kicks the Das Parka's ass. Too bad they don't make it anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I have 2 Das parkas - and love them. They do me well out here in the midwest and great white north. I do think the older versions of the parka are warmer. Not sure why or how they are different. Im trying to sell the older version - yummy orange color (for those hunting weekends), one patch, very warm!!!!! Its an xlarge. Way too big for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5.12Dreamer Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 About a week ago I picked up a Mammut synthetic insulated jacket. It has an insulated hood and substantially more fill than the OR. Feathered Friends has both plus a lightweight Moonstone. Last weekend I was in Chicago where it was 0F with a good 20mph wind and I was still toasty. It packs down to a reasonable size and the price was decent for full retail ($179) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckerri Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 There is no single miracle insulative jacket available. I think the most versatle would be the Patagonia DAS but I would be hesitant to bring it on Denali unless it was a late June trip and I had plenty of time to wait for optimal weather at high camp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted February 13, 2007 Share Posted February 13, 2007 DAS parkas are onsale now at Patagucci. $159. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 I've been a Moonstone fan for quite a while; they make good stuff. Even though their website sucks, and they seem constantly on the brink of bankruptcy, I'd still buy their stuff. The DAS deal per Mr. Phil sounds great. Personally I have a Wild Things Belay Jacket, and LOVE IT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYC007 Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 I have a nice moonstone hoody syn. puffy if anyone is looking...?? I may want to part with..for a low price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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