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eldiente

Beacon Rock/PDX area this Sunday (1/28)?

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I believe that was the weekend before last, and you had better save me a hand crack or two, or else I'll just have to keep repeating yours. were you at the Opal?

 

 

sorry no more hand cracks. opal? never heard of it :)

 

C'mon, what about a finger-crack, off-fingers, seam, off-width, chimney, a face, anything? You know what I like. 100ft of (5.9) fingers. Save it!! I'll a buy you a beer, no no a 6-pack of Hamms. What about a 12-pack, huh?

 

snoop

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Pink_Chalk left her drivers license somewhere the night before and had to go retrieve it. No biggie and it was pretty rough out there.

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Pink_Chalk left her drivers license somewhere the night before and had to go retrieve it.

 

Somewhere? She was at the Alibi in NOPO getting smashed!

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Yeah boys, at the Alibi Friday night whooping it up with the Birthday kid til 4 am ! Left drivers license and credit card at that smoke pit! Bummer.... Feeling rough as expected but sounds like it was too windy there and didnt want my vomit to splatter everyone and the rock.

 

I did however have an excellent day out at Broughtens yeserday. No wind, sunny with warm spots. Although I did get my hair caught in the belay device during a wrap-off!!! :noway: Oh yeah, some young stud was there soloing up this 11+! No joke, ask Jaime...

 

 

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Was he soloing Mr. Bentley?

 

not sure, it was near Crytical Mass. I was climbing during this epic feat in which my belayer was standing there in shock. but they had a full blown conversasion. This dude warmed up on an easier line (far right of crytical mass) that starts up a colum and vears to the left. He was down climbing too. Totally sick!

 

Kev: i meant to tell you this last night... i almost took him out on a pendulum fall while on TR.

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Was it under Crytical Mass? If so it is Mr. Bentley. I know one other who has soloed it. Crazy. Its hard enough with a rope.

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markd, i think you doubled your post today.

 

i think you're right pink. some days are slower than others at work.

 

when you heading back this way?

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Well, Jaime would know for sure. I was getting beat down and trying not paying too much attention to the soloist. I have to admit, I was bothered by his actions b/c not only was I worried about myself and falling -in addition to the safety of my partner- having someone troll around UNROPED just added too much stress and worry about sh_t going down and people getting hurt. Climbing is stressful enough and to deal with wreckless (IMO) behavior takes away from *my* selfish experience I guess... I just assume leave the crag when seeing a climber playing with death. Maybe next time I will. :crazy:

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markd, i think you doubled your post today.

 

i think you're right pink. some days are slower than others at work.

 

when you heading back this way?

 

 

mid july maybe september hope to see you this time around

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So what happens if while I'm climbing, a soloist decides to begin climbing closely near the line I am working on, I crux out, fall, swing far enough that I end up bumping/hitting into him (which almost occurred yesterday, seriously) and knock him off the wall? Is it my fault? Does his family sue me? I for the rest of my life carry the pain of this accident and have nightmares.

Q: why would someone solo so closely to another party? Is that fair? What if we were there first?

 

 

 

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What if we just buy it and then give it to him? I think Yates has a comfy aid harness.

 

I think the trick would be not only buy him a new one but to take his old one. :tup:

while stealing things from him, might as well take the smokes too - poor bastard sounds like a 1-man anti-smoking commercial!

 

My vote is to hold it for ransom so he will quit the smokes ;)

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pink chalk,

having seen you climb, i'm fairly certain you didn't fall on the lower section of critical mass. which makes we wonder what the hell he could have been on???

 

as far as your question: i'm not sure there is a right answer. one thing is for sure though: people have been soloing since the beginning of climbing so it's an accepted part of the sport. having said that - i'm not sure why someone would want to solo in a crowd, if there were other options.

 

coming down to sunny!!! central oregon anytime soon?

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markd, i think you doubled your post today.

 

i think you're right pink. some days are slower than others at work.

 

when you heading back this way?

 

 

mid july maybe september hope to see you this time around

 

mid july, huh. i can't imagine why you'd want to come here then :)

 

if you get some time off before that and want to make a nw loop - you should think about visiting me. i've got some adventure we could get ourselves into.

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most soloist are very aware of the danger involved. you might be surprised how hard it is to knock someone of the rock who is so on top of their game. i doubt if their family could sue you and if you knock him it's not like ya did it on purpose. sounds like ya fancied this young stud.

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I will probable get shit for this. When people solo out at beacon on busy days, it bothers me. First of all its "Solo". There are plenty of rookies out there who get glaze-eyed when they see someone soloing and then don't pay attention to the experience that they are supposed to be having. I am a rookie. Second is the case you mention or knocking off a rock etc. Seeing someone die can't be that fun. I've only seen someone die once. It was in a hospital and very expected, but still burnt into my memory.

 

My answer to your question. They solo to show off, which will be there "down-fall". No its not fair. And if you were there first, tell them once they've reached the ground to "please go somewhere else, cuz they are making you nervous."

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Ahh Pink back to your old icon. Nice.

 

Other people still get freaked out andcould injure themselves cuz they are glaze-eyed. I went climbing with my girlfriend out at Beacon. It was her first time out there and someone soloed past her on P1. Not Cool. She is not that confident and the person soloing made her nervous to the point she was looking down at the soloist coming up behind her and not paying attention to what she was doing. Scary

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pink chalk,

having seen you climb, i'm fairly certain you didn't fall on the lower section of critical mass. which makes we wonder what the hell he could have been on???

 

as far as your question: i'm not sure there is a right answer. one thing is for sure though: people have been soloing since the beginning of climbing so it's an accepted part of the sport. having said that - i'm not sure why someone would want to solo in a crowd, if there were other options.

 

coming down to sunny!!! central oregon anytime soon?

 

Mark: he wasn’t on the 11+ when I swung over to say hi. I'll ask Jaime what the climbs were. The swing occurred ~3/4 high on Critical Mass, he was right and lower of me... warming up, but not snoop style ;)

 

I understand the history of soloist with some level of respect but it scares me to see how it is becoming more and more accepted and glorified in the magazines. Just my opinion. I don’t want to be around it and find it disturbing that this climber traveled so closely to us.

 

To his credit, I am amazed by his physical and mental strength. Looked to be 5.13+ climber. These guys keep pushing the limits til one day..... Kaboom.

 

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I will probable get shit for this. When people solo out at beacon on busy days, it bothers me. First of all its "Solo". There are plenty of rookies out there who get glaze-eyed when they see someone soloing and then don't pay attention to the experience that they are supposed to be having. I am a rookie. Second is the case you mention or knocking off a rock etc. Seeing someone die can't be that fun. I've only seen someone die once. It was in a hospital and very expected, but still burnt into my memory.

 

My answer to your question. They solo to show off, which will be there "down-fall". No its not fair. And if you were there first, tell them once they've reached the ground to "please go somewhere else, cuz they are making you nervous."

 

 

stewert, be expecting a package full shit postmarked from colorado :grin:

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I went climbing with my girlfriend out at Beacon. It was her first time out there and someone soloed past her on P1.

 

probably ivan on one of his solo laps! ( just kidding ivan )

 

10 years ago it would have been andrew and ken because they were CRAZY!

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stewert, be expecting a package full shit postmarked from colorado :grin:

 

I can help ya fill up that package Pink. :wave:

 

Sounds like Stewart needs a full bag. :grin:

 

Bill

 

Supersition is an awesome climb with good holds, why they didn't just mosey down a bit and leave you alone is confusing.

 

 

Maybe it's like Bachar back when, he had a free-solo circuit of like 30-50 climbs, if you happened to be on one, he was flowing, and it was easier for you to step aside than him to stop and wait.

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seemed like everybody used to solo out there. it's kind of contaigous. ken got me soloing back in the day, i told him wasn't into it . in return he told me that he would climb behind me and catch me if a fall. for some stupid reason i actually beleived him. he was such a tough fucker, and those meat hooks of his. i heard the kids at school used to tease him. they would chant forearms, forearms, forearms.

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