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[TR] Mount Washington - Route 4 (sort of) 1/20/2007


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Trip: Mount Washington - Route 4 (sort of)


Date: 1/20/2007


Trip Report:

After so much warm air sport climbing in Thailand, it was time to hit the Olympics and play in the snow for a little while. The forecast looked good enough for a run at Washington, though I wasn't quite sure what I might find in the way of avalanche danger. I teamed up with Lauren, Rhys, and Jake for the climb up to the top via a proposed Route 4 - Route 2 hybrid, leaving Tacoma REI parking lot at the stupidly early hour of 4:30 am. The road up toward Ellinor was a little frozen for a while, then the snow started piling up. Rhys got his 4-Runner high, perhaps a mile or two below the lower trail head, and out we spilled, starting the hike up at 7:30 am.



Jake on the road




We hiked up the hard snow for about two minutes and then cut right into the woods on a barely marked (some yellow flagging tape) use trail that ran up and around over awkward ground (heavy overnight packs!) before dumping us out into a clear slide area with good snow. We kicked steps up for 15 minutes as the sun got really nice on the Ellinor - Washington ridge, finally emerging back onto the road, but well past the Route 1 trailhead.


Lauren kicking steps on our shortcut




Our short cut put us about a quarter of mile from the Jefferson Pass trailhead, easily reached along the flat road. Several hours of road walking saved here.



Ellinor and Washington. Our route would go straight up by the prominent avalanche chute to the base of the headwall. The left into the gully and up toward the top.





We walked down the road and began cross country work just pass the Jefferson Pass trail sign, following a prominent creek up. The snow initially was pretty good, but as we began to clear the trees we frequently hit spots with rocks, or very fluffy powder that made climbing very hard. Much sweat lost, but the sun was shining and everyone was happy at the progress we were making. However, as we gained elevation the work became seriously tough, with very steep sections that paradoxically held deep, dry snow that wasn't solid enough to take the weight of a climber.



Jake on some bad snow.




Underneath was hard ice/compact snow that you couldn't do much with. Now, the clever person would have put crampons on and tried switchbacking a bit, but no one ever accused the four of us of being clever. Well, maybe Lauren is clever, but certainly not the rest of us. We eventually got up to near the base of the headwall (actually, behind some cliffs) and thought about traversing right.



Lauren coming over to where we had to descend.




We wouldn't be able to traverse, which meant we had to drop down lower and then move up once again. Once again, of course, our crampons stayed on our backs and some nifty (ok, thuggish) work was needed to get down off hard ice covered by 3 inches of fluff. But once down everything seemed grand.



Rhys in the distance




The fun continued as we gained more elevation, lost more sweat, and climbed high into a gully that turned worse and worse as we came up. We were trying to stay close to the ridge and the gully we were taking turned out not to be the right one. It led up to a narrow pass and dropped off into a large basin on the other side.



Where we got stopped (for the moment)




Time was rolling on and we contemplated our options during a laughable session with the drawn map of the routes on Washington. We concluded that we were looking down on Route 5 and that we probably wanted to retrace our steps down the gully. So, back down we went, cutting into the main basin and heading up on increasingly challenging terrain, with hard, nasty ice underneath fluff. The challenge would have been, er, not so challenging had we bothered to put our crampons on. At least we looked cool (not like anyone was watching).



On our way back up.




We climbed up for another half hour and decided we should probably dig in for a camp and spend a little more time with the map to determine where to go. We were looking up at an icy gully that we thought might go to the summit. Not very far!



The gully we thought was the last, from our camp




The slope was at about 20-25 degrees, which meant we had to spend some time with shovels digging and slashing at the fluff and ice to get two platforms built. Task 1 accomplished. We never looked at the map, being too concerned with telling jokes about our respective mothers. Ok, only about Jake's mom.



Home sweet home




Smiles were everywhere, as the setting couldn't have been more grand.



Rhys and Lauren




Looking down to Lake Cushman and off to Hood Canal and Tacoma




The big fatty came out and got some awesome alpinglow about 2 hours after this photo




We were all pretty spent and decided to try the gully and the summit tomorrow. Even if it didn't work, we didn't have a whole lot more options. The temperature surprised us by dropping precipitously when the sun went down, driving us into our bags at the early hour of 6 pm. But the South Sound lit up all aglow, and Jake's sparklers seemed somehow appropriate.




After 13 hours in the sleeping bags, I finally stuck my head out of the tent to see what that howling sound was.




I put my head back inside and curled up into my bag, happy with where I was. Rhys and Jake decided to give the gully a run any way. I had a shot of Canadian whiskey and went back to sleep after watching them for a few minutes.




I dozed for a bit before finally wanting some tea, which meant that I had to go outside to fetch the stove. The wind was still blowing, but it wasn't especially cold as I melted snow for water. The two had been gone for an hour before I saw them slowly down climbing the gully and make their way back to the camp.




They had reached the top of the gully and then climbed a thin, narrow one to a notch. From the notch led steep, technical rock with plentiful patches of ice. Then decided not to try it and came back. Despite the weather, they were happy with the bit of climbing they got to do. Due to a genetic disorder, Rhys has this permanent look on his face, no matter what he is doing.




We packed up and headed back down (wearing crampons!) the slopes, sticking to the open areas for as long as we could. As we broke through tree line, our progress became more and more difficult. 50 feet above the road, we got stuck by a system of waterfalls and had to work seriously hard for 45 minutes to finally get down. We walked back down the road, picked up our old tracks, and retraced our steps back to the truck, plenty happy.









Gear Notes:

Ice axes.

Crampons (try using them).


Canadian Whiskey.


Approach Notes:

You can't get to the lower trailhead now, unless afoot. Park where you can and hike up. Unless you know where the use trails are, you'll need to take the road all the past the Route 1 trailhead to the Jefferson Pass trailhead. From there, you're on your own.

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