Jens Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 It hit 60F at my place in Seattle today. Put away the ice tools and go cragging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 Hey, you didn't tell us it would be so fucking wwwiiiinnnd.... There is still ice out there. You have to look far, far, away though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 Jens, it may be warm here but it is still very cold east of the mountains. There's still ice there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 It was T-shirt weather at Erie today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreserJ Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 it is still very cold east of the mountains. Â 37 degrees up in the Tieton, perfect for cragging. The best part about it was there was very few people out there. Thanks! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roboboy Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 what was wrong with this ? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Squamish on Saturday had high friction and no crowds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 well, truthfully, no crowds except at Penny Lane where those darn girls Fern and Mer and J snaked a route before I got there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 It was a great day to find some unclimbed trad pitches in a sea of bolted routes. Hmmmmm.....trad climbing a half hour from Seattle, no driving back on Highway 2, and all unclimbed. Where could this be at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 It was a great day to find some unclimbed trad pitches in a sea of bolted routes. Hmmmmm.....trad climbing a half hour from Seattle, no driving back on Highway 2, and all unclimbed. Where could this be at  Renton? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Damn, spoil the surprise why don't you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 18F in the afternoon when Tvashtarkatena and I left Marble Canyon at Lillooet yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Where you guys the group of 8 from seattle..? Â -8 at Marble huh...how were the climbs...musta been getting fatter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 No it was just me and a buddy. Tavashtarketena and I got started late on Sunday due to being at the Vic and the Reynolds the night before. Climbs were plenty fat. The Duffy was pretty strange on saturday- Ice in more new places than I have seen in 10 years of going to Lillooet averaging 2-3trips a year but all the climbs were are had taking a beating from the sun and or warmth. It is plenty good right now though and I'm betting Feb. is gonna be really good! I forgot how much I love Lillooet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 what was wrong with this ?  rope drag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR_Guy Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 (edited) Yeah, it WAS a lot of drag (that's my sorry butt out there). What can I say - I'm a newb trad leader and got off the best line (which is easier to do relative to clipping bolts). That being said, I think I placed solid pro and made it up to the snag and the next belay safely. Part of the learning experience. Â Roboboy pointed out after the fact that the lower, more direct, line was quite protectable. At the time, I didn't notice the small features he referred to (I fixated on the larger, more obvious opportunities to place gear higher up), but again, chalk it up to inexperience. Next time out, I'll know better. Â Zig Zag on Eire is a fun route and fairly rated at 5.7 (the crux move on the next pitch compared quite well to 5.7 routes at Stone Gardens). This section and the first pitch was a grade or two below that. Â The view from up there on Saturday was amazing. Weather - what more can you ask for on January 27th. Makes me wish we'd gone back there on Sunday instead of out to Exit 38 which was cold with howling wind. Edited February 1, 2007 by AR_Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Makes me wish we'd gone back there on Sunday instead of out to Exit 38 which was cold with howling wind. Â It was windy as hell on Saturday, too. Oh, but we got our just reward :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 nice work! Zig Zag is fun. small gear would have allowed a more direct line w/o rope drag or just extend those out of line placements with a sling. The first pitch dihedral is sweet for the grade, but too short. Combine that with the Springboard for a fun moderate route on the Eriehorn. looks like a fun day out! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR_Guy Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Yeah - that IS a fun climb. I'm definately going back there and do it again. Next time I hope to lead the whole thing and do it with some style. Â We had the full set of gear - cams down to 0.3 and a full set of nuts from 4 to 13. Roboboy actually placed the smallest nut as the first piece heading up the 3rd pitch. I just didn't notice the opportunities in the more direct line. I guess it's part of the learning process - to spot those less than blatently obvious spots for pro on a slabby climb. Â I suppose I could have extended the pieces more - as it was, I had a sling on them. Â I totally agree that the first pitch dihedral is sweet - I really enjoyed that section. I also really liked the crux sequence. All in all a very fun, fairly graded climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Squamish was awesome today  Sunny Dry And EMPTY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Yeah - that IS a fun climb. I'm definately going back there and do it again. Next time I hope to lead the whole thing and do it with some style. We had the full set of gear - cams down to 0.3 and a full set of nuts from 4 to 13. Roboboy actually placed the smallest nut as the first piece heading up the 3rd pitch. I just didn't notice the opportunities in the more direct line. I guess it's part of the learning process - to spot those less than blatently obvious spots for pro on a slabby climb.  I suppose I could have extended the pieces more - as it was, I had a sling on them.  I totally agree that the first pitch dihedral is sweet - I really enjoyed that section. I also really liked the crux sequence. All in all a very fun, fairly graded climb.   The better version of Pitch 2 is to climb "undercover" (5.7) the obvious crack/roof thing that slants up to the right. Clip 2 bolts on slabby terrain directly above the zig-zag p. 1 anchor, then follow the Crack feature to the Sprinboard ledge. Then either do Springboard (best, 5.8) or the final pitch of zig-zag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 I'm with Blake. Undercover is pretty good. I thought that was the more common way to climb zig zag and was surprised when Dallas' book came show it as it does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 the bolted arete just above the p1 anchor offers a harder even more direct approach to the springboard, its bolted a bit funny, but offers good steep exposed climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Its bolted a bit funny... Â Is this one of those where bolts come right after cruxy moves? If so, might somebody have been trying to bolt these things in a fashion that prevents climbers from cheating and grabbing a bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Its bolted a bit funny... Â Is this one of those where bolts come right after cruxy moves? If so, might somebody have been trying to bolt these things in a fashion that prevents climbers from cheating and grabbing a bolt? yeah, bolts right after the cruz, but i think kloke is just a wacko who doesn't take the time to climb or rehearse his routes before he drills away. damn shame what he's doing to Mt. Erie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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