New Zealand advice

[tvashtarkatena]

Dunedin is a far better city than Christchurch.

Wanaka is a far better town than Queenstown.

 

True dat.

If you want to go climbing peaks and not see crowds forget about Aspiring and Cook and head for the Barron Saddle - Mount Brewster area.

 

 

Worse weather and horrific rock, though. If you're in Aspiring NP, you must go to the mountain. It's spectacular.

 

 

 

Only go to the Darrans if it isn't raining or if you are homesick for the PNW.

 

 

The Darrans (above Milford Sound) have the cleanest granite in NZ...and some of the worst weather. If you can get a couple of good days, however, you can do a really find unroped ridge traverse in a day from the hut with incredible views of Milford Sound far below. It's like a rock gym on superb granite with world class scenery.

Edited February 16, 2007 by tvashtarkatena

[goatboy]

What's the name of the unroped ridge traverse that you're referring to, Tvash'? Which hut?

[mwalker]

So i'm heading to new zealand from Feb to July - going to be living in christchurch - plan is to never go to school and climb lots.

 

From this thread i'd say that "Rock Deluxe" is the guidbook i want. Anyone know if this is still the case, or is there is a newer one out?

 

Also, i'd like to do some alpine but i'm not that interested in lugging my screws and axes over there. Anyone have an opinion on whether i can get away with just bringing crampons and a single axe (in addition to all my rock gear)

 

[hemp22]

i just got back from there a few days ago. while i didn't purchase any guidebooks, i did look through a bunch of borrowed ones and I'd say that yes - Rock Deluxe is still the best bet for the whole South Island.

 

for the ice screws & axes, you can probably find places to rent them...

[tvashtarkatena]

What's the name of the unroped ridge traverse that you're referring to, Tvash'? Which hut?

 

This info is too late for your trip (I didn't catch your question until now) but in case anyone else has the same question:

 

Homer Hut

 

Mt. Barrier to Marion traverse

 

McPherson nearby has a manky via ferrata route on it (unless they've repaired it)

Edited November 20, 2007 by tvashtarkatena

[tvashtarkatena]

So i'm heading to new zealand from Feb to July - going to be living in christchurch - plan is to never go to school and climb lots.

 

From this thread i'd say that "Rock Deluxe" is the guidbook i want. Anyone know if this is still the case, or is there is a newer one out?

 

Also, i'd like to do some alpine but i'm not that interested in lugging my screws and axes over there. Anyone have an opinion on whether i can get away with just bringing crampons and a single axe (in addition to all my rock gear)

 

Yes. We did Aspiring from the hut with crampons and one axe - never roped up. Some 4th, some 3rd, some neve climbing. Nothing too tech. Aspiring is not to be missed, if you can swing the weather. Choppering in can save a two day hike and help you nail some sunny conditions, although the hike in is cool, too. The DOC (Dept of Conservation) office in Wanaka can set you up with where to get maps, partners, choppers, etc. There are other peaks you can climb from the hut as well: The Rolling Pin and French were two good ones. Hike to the west edge of the glacier: it's a 6,000 foot drop and severely overhung at the top. Utterly spectacular.

Edited November 20, 2007 by tvashtarkatena