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Robson


Skisports

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yeah, but the weatheroffice reports for jasper are always like "mix of sun and cloud" or some ambiguous thing like that = robson and the icefield make their own weather and the weather dudes don't have any idea. [Wink]

 

they're pretty good at telling you when it's for sure gonna a be bad but lousy at predicting when its for sure gonna be good.

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Thanks Dru I am going to past on robson this year due to the fact that it is to late. I was just hopeing for a weather window and it wasn't a good enough window. I probably try do atempt On the NF next year in one day. If Will Gadd can do the Kain face in one day I might be able to pull of the NF in one [Roll Eyes][Eek!] . Have you done the north face before Dru?? Just curious what route do you think is beter wishbone arrete or the NF.

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here is a pretty current conditions report on Robson from Raphael Slawinski stolen off www.live-the-vision.com

 

Peter Smolik and Slawinski Sr. and Jr. climbed Robson this past weekend, up the Kain, down the S face. No fresh snow on Robson Glacier until well above the Extinguisher, getting progressively deeper higher up, but travelling is still fairly easy. The icefall getting up to the Dome has some tricky route finding through giant crevasses: as a rule, when in doubt, look left. The NE face is good step kicking snow, while the summit ridge is windblasted to neve.

 

On the descent, we decided to bypass the Schwartz ledges by rappelling the seracs above Little Robson. Bad idea: between a lot of the ice being little more than stiff snow and us having only one rope, we spent a long time finding decent anchors and making lots of short raps. Not exactly minimizing our exposure to the seracs! Even with double ropes, though, I would not recommend the rappel option. Fortunately the rest of the descent, while tedious, was uneventful.

 

Having now seen both "regular" routes on the mountain, namely the Kain and the S face, I am not sure why anyone would choose to climb the latter. It is a grunt, not very aesthetic, and dangerous to boot. But whatever route you climb, make sure to take a bike to the far end of Kinney Lake. It will save both time and effort (especially if you forget your climbing boots at the lake and have to go back to get them...).

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Im waiting until Im a better skiier so I can on sight the NF ski descent [laf]

 

Mountains that you have to wait a week for a weather window are not on top of my list. If i was gonna do it though I would go for NF or Emperor Ridge. Wishbone looks jive ass, lots of shitty rock climbing to a shoert gargoyle section. You could fly in to the Clemenceau for the same gargoyles with less suffering and to simulate the rock climbing just do a hundred laps up the side of the moraine by the hut. [Roll Eyes]

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