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Fence_Sitter

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fence sitter, go do it, it's nowhere near as bushy as the northeast buttress - which has to be an all-time classic for west coast mixed: you know, rock and cedar!

some tips:

low down, you might find you'll end up climbing the right-slanting gully leading into the gut behind the NW shoulder. this is crumbly and unprotectable, but not too hard, and u don't have to get too far up it (60m-80m). i once tried gaining the 1st ledge directly by climbing at about the shadow-sun line on fairley p24, and couldn't do it; looks more attractive than the gully, but very compact rock, wet here and there, no pegs, no balls...

then traverse WAAAAY left (you can actually easily walk all the way to the NE butt).

center section: when in doubt, go right. well marked on fairley p24. cross a little rib to get into the hollow (probably no snowpatch this time of year) in the center of the face. exit this on the extreme right - i've tried getting out the top, and had to back down. a GOOD (unnamed) local pitched quite a long ways from a pitch or so directly above the hollow way back when.

upper section: 2 -3 pitches, again keep drifting right, don't fight the terrain. nice corners, blocks, and ribs, blended with heather and a bit of bush - but i recall not much of it, and not interfering with the progress. continue thus all the way to the upper W ridge. then it's easy bush to the top.

p.s. as for doing it in winter, talk is cheap. there haven't exactly been line-ups...

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dR, i don't want it to seem like i'm slamming u for the suggestion that winter is a good time to climb the lions. there IS good climbing to be had, early december onwards. mostly that's on the south and west sides tho; hasn't seemed to be interest in doing more exciting things since the '70s ended. and there are HARD things to be climbed on the east face. plus getting there is no picnic.

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Don, no hard feelings...I guess i should have stressed my point more that if you could catch it when good conditions prevail...this may seem a little light, it is a hearty approach in winter with dwindling hours of light...i was also responding to a posting by fence sitter (bad pun there) that he was looking for things to climb in the coast range (things not done all the time) in the winter as he is up here for school during the season...onwards and upwards...

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  • 1 month later...

quote:

it's nowhere near as bushy as the northeast buttress - which has

to be an all-time classic for west coast mixed: you know, rock and cedar!

Went and soloed that a few days ago via the Howe Sound Crest Trail, inspired by Dru's write up on bivouac (thanks Dru) but will never do it again. It can only be described as vertical bushwacking [Eek!] My only suggestion would be to wait for a good dry spell otherwise your looking at climbing a mud staircase. [chubit]

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