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jesse

Slesse NE Butthole TR

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Climbed Slesse NE Butt on 8/15-16 from the buttress toe with buddy from SLC.

 

We scrambled up the broken terrain to the slabs below the E pocket glacer, and safely to the buttress. Twenty minutes later, as we racked up, some ice calved off and littered the area with ice chunks. Both north and east side pocket glaciers are still there and dislodging lots of ice.

The first three pitches of "da toe" provided the most difficult climbing of the entire route. A section of nice simul-climbing led to a section of bush-pulling. We missed the 5.7 bypass, and proceeded to the mid-height area, where the rock became steeper and juggy. A few strenuous pitches led to our bivy. Here, a critter chewed on my chums so that the shades fell out the next day, and chewed on Aaron's pack too. Bitch. We finished the route the next morning direct to the summit. Better climbing up there.

The descent involves staying alert for another hour or two while finding the rappels and gully connections. Then we trudged down and down and down. Those hosers up there set up their trails kinda funny... We limped into the parking area at dark. I slept on that little wooden frame thingy, which was sweet. Use the Crossover descent, wherever that is, if you have the interest and patience and stamina.

We hadn't set up any kind of shuttle. But some other climbers loaned us their bikes after deciding to jump into a helicopter that landed there. Thanks fellas and good luck!

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Just did the route a couple of days ago and could add a few bits to help anyone going out that way.

If you do the pocket glacier to get to the bypass of the lowest pitches, either cross to the right side either mid way up the glacier (that is what we did and involves touchy scrambling up debris on the right side) or stay on the left side and go to the top of the glacier then cross to the right in a big crevase (collapsed bridge with the possibility of falling in deeper?). Either way there was some fixed lines that you can batman up to get to the ramp. It is helpfull because the glacier doesn't make it easy to get to the 4th class ramp.

Once on the route, follow your nose and do what seems right. As long as you are on route, there are some good pitches and some rock that doesn't look solid but stays put. Some pitches are short so we linked much together by accident. There was still a couple of snow patches in the bivy area which looks like a killer place to crash. Didn't get to witness the granly little rodents though. Snow patch on the summit too, but you don't have to climb through it. Water is not much of a problem for the next week or so.

Descent: We tried the crossover peak descent but it is pretty confusing. The guide says you need time and energy. 3 hours of daylight is not enough time. It is a big confusing summit and it takes a while to get off of it. (sorta like stuart) IMHO, take two vehicles and go down to slesse creek trailhead. Be ready for a trail that goes straight down the hill. Steep, never a switchback and very dry. Amazing that anyone goes up the trail. It is built by climbers dreaming of beer in town and want it a soon as possible. Classic canadian adventure.

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